...the journey of a '77 bmw 320i from its home in california through a mild "frame on" restoration in the midwest...
Monday, August 20, 2012
Sunday, August 19, 2012
exhaust: 1976 Early rear valance
notice the muffler opening on the early 1976 318...the rear valance on this little jem is further towards the center of the car...the muffler end pipe is also bent and is another unique feature of the early model car...
compared to...the later styled muffler placement...
and the 6 cyl 323i dual exhaust below...
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
Brilliantrot 1990 325iS
the issue of paint color...specifically, red is something that has been sitting on the back burner of my mind from the drive to pittsburgh from hollywood...
red is extremely hard to pick because my experience is to often when i ask owners the actual ppg color or something similar...they 'farmed' the work out and they don't have a clue...often people buy their cars 'finished' and the color was selected by the previous owners...
while i'm posting for the record here...let me say just for the record...i should confess that RED is NOT my first choice...in fact there are many colors that i prefer over RED...but while i don't prefer like red as a first choice, i dislike changing any car's original color worse than my general aversion to RED...this 320i isn't my first restoration...but...i've never had a car that was 'finished'...i'm just sayin...that's a weird answer to me...
this Brilliantrot 1990 325iS e30 is a solid color that i've considered...the current paint color is Korral and its a '90's color...the car was 'refreshed' in the '90's which explains its higher mileage, and good condition...the '90's cosmetic refresh was pivotal to this deeper restoration i've been attempting...
my mind changes constantly when it comes to color...today, brillantrot is pretty appealing.
Monday, August 13, 2012
Sunday, August 12, 2012
Engine Build
Amazing possibilities exist for the e30
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1715145&highlight=m50+stroker
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1715145&highlight=m50+stroker
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Cracked dash forum discussion
There is a do it yourself repair that is worth remembering about given the common nature of cracked dashes among E21's...so this is a just in case sort of thing...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1865940
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1865940
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
interior dye
after rebuilding the engine, transmission, drive shaft, and LSD differential, and output shafts on the car...i have come to the conclusion that she is almost ready for a paint job...that means i need to finish the fuel system, and the cooling system so that i can start the engine for the first time...so that i'm not unnecessarily leaning on the fenders strugling with the webers on the first start...i'm still working on the interior parts...and after pulling 3 pairs of center consoles and rear seats from random 635csi i finally found THE pair in a dark shade of blue that i need to dye black...they are not far from black to begin with so the change will require less coats...instead of using the shoe dye i've used on the sample pair...i am thinking i'm gonna use the leatherique dye...
sachmo12345 comments - ''Leatherique for sure. Get a 16oz of Rejuvinator and Pristine Clean and a gentle horse hair brush.
Park your car in the sun and let it bake with rejuvinator on the seats and trashbags over the seats. I did it on a 103 degree day. I let it sit for about 24 hours.
Apply pristine clean and scrub gently with brush. I put the pristine clean in a spray bottle to make it easier to use. Then wipe with a microfiber.''
followed up with a comment by Luciano36 -
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1821950&highlight=sport+seats+restoration
oddly enough it seems that the poster has sucessfully sanded the cracks out of the leather seats...this is something i would NEVER have thought of attempting...perhaps on the older/odd seats i have this would be something to try...wow.
in the thread immediately above...this product is featured and endorsed...
http://classicdyeproducts.com/
lastly, Lucuano36 advises the following blog...
http://theinteriorguyllc.com/
sachmo12345 comments - ''Leatherique for sure. Get a 16oz of Rejuvinator and Pristine Clean and a gentle horse hair brush.
Park your car in the sun and let it bake with rejuvinator on the seats and trashbags over the seats. I did it on a 103 degree day. I let it sit for about 24 hours.
Apply pristine clean and scrub gently with brush. I put the pristine clean in a spray bottle to make it easier to use. Then wipe with a microfiber.''
followed up with a comment by Luciano36 -
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1821950&highlight=sport+seats+restoration
oddly enough it seems that the poster has sucessfully sanded the cracks out of the leather seats...this is something i would NEVER have thought of attempting...perhaps on the older/odd seats i have this would be something to try...wow.
in the thread immediately above...this product is featured and endorsed...
http://classicdyeproducts.com/
lastly, Lucuano36 advises the following blog...
http://theinteriorguyllc.com/
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Fuel Line (cont.)
Ok, so it has taken me what seems like forever to find an get these gas lines for the top vent tubes but now that I have them installed the left hand tank has the line fastened on, and the tank is fastened with only hand tight bolts. Because this is a '76 build date it features separate tank connected with (1.5 SAE) hose, that hose lists for $16.00/ft. That is in place as well...I need to have some work done to the in-tank suction devise before its installed and the right side tank lifted into place...
Labels:
fuel,
fuel lines,
fuel pump,
fuel sender,
fuel system wiring,
in-tank fuel pump
Monday, June 11, 2012
Coolant Tube M10
The picture is of two coolant tubes located on the driver's side (LHD) of an M10 engine...this tube came off of an M10/e21 I found at a pick-n-pull near where I live...this car is nearly 100% rust free...but after loosing the head I discovered that electromagnetic current/charges caused the water/coolant to interact with the aluminum heads causing the aluminum heads to corrode internally...rather than blowing a head gasket it corroded from the inside...this corroding also included this coolant tube shown...apparently it is NLA from BMW and as is illustrated the replacement I found is only "ok"...
Saturday, May 26, 2012
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