tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19234514633778607762024-02-29T00:52:56.893-08:00... the320i.blogspot.com ......the journey of a '77 bmw 320i from its home in california through a mild "frame on" restoration in the midwest...Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger442125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-20293587342819525662020-01-07T11:32:00.002-08:002020-01-07T11:32:23.207-08:00e21 engine schematic<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-3Ob4zKj6pqCCVT35ahOIhGemk9ZGNjwCE8qN9LH1jZoiiePt0oob8iYDEXIU-VegbGEnoRw39Z7lPJvPl8uxQFSXL1HoVG28vK9dxcr12ZEEmmtAAB4EcQbruLPebyrOzlLqHtBROg/s1600/000-001-002.bmwdrawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="901" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-3Ob4zKj6pqCCVT35ahOIhGemk9ZGNjwCE8qN9LH1jZoiiePt0oob8iYDEXIU-VegbGEnoRw39Z7lPJvPl8uxQFSXL1HoVG28vK9dxcr12ZEEmmtAAB4EcQbruLPebyrOzlLqHtBROg/s400/000-001-002.bmwdrawing.jpg" width="281" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-8612049580259258362020-01-06T12:58:00.002-08:002020-01-06T12:58:37.924-08:00Real OEM <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?vin=5400635">RealOEM.com</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-29997006137316236612016-03-28T11:13:00.002-07:002016-03-28T11:13:36.417-07:00323i Trailing Arms (Seals Part Numbers)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
323i Rear Trailing Arm Seal Part Numbers<br />
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(x2) Inner Seal - 58x42x7 - $12<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.ebay.com</a><br />
<br />
(x2) Inner Bearing - 30x58x16 - $72<br />
<a href="https://mibearings.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://mibearings.com</a><br />
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(x2) Outer Bearing - 30x62x16 - $19<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.ebay.com</a><br />
<br />
(x2) Outer Seal - 42x62x7 - $17<br />
<a href="https://www.grainger.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.grainger.com</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-38107532013573880482016-03-14T08:40:00.000-07:002016-03-14T08:46:26.597-07:00Recaro Seat Restoration - Foam Repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h1>
TMI Seat Foam Recaro GT 1979-1982</h1>
<h1>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Product Description</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM-jf8bc-y1FdpXxSeU41zm_ov-SymM5Iuc15hCtcTdLQ8s05ijTwiiObrS5GQqd8FTxH8CI38g5XX0RZrUF3X5eV0AiE9tLmc_DpfPpCXUuuEWVVCwGBkMYKiUsw_tSTMiGyF6B5BN0E/s1600/sf19-v_1.810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM-jf8bc-y1FdpXxSeU41zm_ov-SymM5Iuc15hCtcTdLQ8s05ijTwiiObrS5GQqd8FTxH8CI38g5XX0RZrUF3X5eV0AiE9tLmc_DpfPpCXUuuEWVVCwGBkMYKiUsw_tSTMiGyF6B5BN0E/s200/sf19-v_1.810.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
</span></span></h1>
<span class="box-description">
</span><br />
<div class="short-description" style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="box-description">TMI Seat Foam for all 1979, 1980, 1981 and 1982 GT Mustangs with Recaro Seats.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="box-description">
<span class="long-description"> </span></span></div>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">Comfort is one of the most
import aspects of your 1979-1982 GT Mustang, as nobody wants to sit in
the front seats if they are worn out or damaged. When the time comes to
give your Recaro seats a restoration, you must turn to TMI's Seat Foam
for a direct replacement for those run-down Recaro seats. This seat foam
serves as a support & cushion for your body, which has a direct
correlation to having a positive driving experience.</span></span><br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
</span></span>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
CJ Pony Parts now has TMI's seat foam available individually for your
passenger or driver side front bucket seat, or a pair for both.</span></span><br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
<br />
<b>Features:</b><br /> - Direct Fit Replacement<br /> - Thick & Durable<br /> - OEM Quality<br /> - Provides More Comfort & Resilience<br /> - Factory-Style Knee Bolsters<br /> - Fits Driver or Passenger Side</span></span><br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description"><br />
</span></span><span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
This GT Recaro Seat Foam from TMI is a fantastic idea for when you
put in new upholstery or freshen up a worn-out seat in your '79-'82 GT
Mustang. With this seat foam, you'll receive a back seat foam assembly,
as well as a bottom seat foam assembly, that features larger headrests,
adjustable knee bolsters and broader side bolsters.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
</span></span>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
The seat foam fits over top of the Recaro seat frames that were an
optional upgrade for the 1979-1982 GT Mustangs, making for an easy
installation. After installing, you'll notice the improvement with the
comfort, resilience and density of the seat right away. This seat foam
also provides strong durability for your seat, while making for a
high-quality direct fit replacement for renovating your 1979-1982 GT
Mustang's interior.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
</span></span>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
<b>Please Note</b>: This seat foam ONLY fits Recaro seat frames that are found in 1979-1982 GT Mustangs.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
</span></span>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
TMI Products has been an industry leader for over 30 years with
supreme-quality upholstery, door panels, consoles, seat foam and many
other Mustang interior products. Each product is completely made in the
USA with special attention being made to upholding the highest quality
& using the best possible materials, solidifying them as the best on
the market.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
</span></span>
<span class="box-description"><span class="long-description">
Order TMI's Seat Foam for your 1979, 1980, 1981 and 1982 GT Mustang with Recaro Seats from CJ Pony Parts today!</span>
</span><br />
<h1>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Source: <span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.cjponyparts.com/tmi-seat-foam-recaro-gt-1979-1982/p/SF19-V/">http://www.cjponyparts.com/tmi-seat-foam-recaro-gt-1979-1982/p/SF19-V/</a></span></span></span></h1>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-22577224380091274102014-09-26T20:57:00.000-07:002014-09-26T20:57:50.205-07:00BMW History of the S38 Engine<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-weight: bold;">The History of the S38 engine</span><br /> <br /><br />This
article goes a bit deeper into the engine of our beloved E34 ///M5.
Like you may have heard or read before, this engine is the result of an
almost 20 year evolution of engine development at BMW ///M GmbH. But
let's go a bit further into detail about its history. The intention of
the article is not to explain the technical differences, but to give an
overview of the evolution and to describe the legacy of the S38 engine.<br /> <br />It
all started in 1973 when BMW needed a more powerful engine for the
competition CSL's to compete with the Ford Capri's. Until then, BMW via
Schnitzer and Alpina raced the CSL's with the M38 and M52 engines. These
SOHC engines where based on the M06 engine from 1968. The M06 is the
first version of the legendary engine family, which we all now know as
the M30 big six.<br /> <br />Linking the M30 with the M06 may seem
confusing, but it is not. In the early 1980's, BMW switched to a new
system of coding their engines. Before then, an engine was designated by
a three character long code and if applicable followed by a version
(for example M90 or M49/1). The new engine coding used a six character
long code and if applicable followed by one or more characters for
engine specifics. The new engine code allowed BMW to specify its source
(regular BMW or BMW Motorsport), the engine family and the displacement.
Examples of the new engine codex are M30B35 and S62B50. The M06 engine
from 1968 is coded according to the old coding system, while the M30B35
from 1985 is coded according to the new system. Some common engines with
an 'old' ID code also received 'new' engine code. For instance the M06
is also know as the M30B25V with the V meaning "Vergasser" or
Carburettor.<br /> <br />The M52 racing engine family created a base for the
new 24-valve race engine coded M49. This new engine was developed by a
new division lead by Jochen Neerpasch. Today we know that division as
BMW Motorsport. Jochen Neerpasch managed to create a team with amongst
others Paul Rosche, also known as "nocken Paul". The cylinder head of
the M49 engine is almost similar to the M12/2 formula II engine. This
means that the camshafts are driven by directly by gear train. This
valve-train was driven by a single timing chain via an intermediate
shaft. Theoretically this allowed the head to rev over 9000RPM. But
since the crankshaft is larger than the four-cylinder Formula II engine,
9000RPM was the limit for the group 5 engine. The M49 equipped E9 CSL
won it's first race in the European ETC series on the Salzburgrung in
March 1974. A remarkable success, especially because it was also it's
racing debut. The oil crisis of 1973 and the commercial lack of interest
for high performance cars (the E20 2002 turbo being a good example)
slowed down the development of the E9 CSLs. Four E9 CSLs with M49
engines entered the American IMSA series in 1975. Also in 1976, BMW
participated in the American IMSA series. During these two years, BMW
won 7 races.<br /> <br />In Europe, there was hardly any real competition
and when plans for a group 5 class for the 1975 season did not
materialize, the European E9 CSL's with M49 engines where sold of.
Alpina bought at least one and about two years ago one of these cars
showed up for sale in the Netherlands for about US$25000. <br /><br />For
the 1976 season, the oil crises was a few years back and BMW decided to
enter the newly created group 5 series. By request of the factory, Josef
Schnitzer further developed the M49 engine so it could be used for
vertical installation in the CSL's engine bay. Vertical installation
allowed the use of larger exhaust headers, a more optimized inlet system
and the installation of a more efficient cooling system. This engine
was named M49/3 and yielded 465hp @ 8500RPM. But compared top the
Porsche 935 turbo, the E9 CSL with the atmospheric M49/3 engine did not
have a chance to compete. That is why in a later stage, twin turbo
chargers where added. This was the fifth evolution of the M49 engine and
was called M49/4. The M49/4 had a 300cc smaller displacement. With a
bore of 94.0mm, the M49/3 only had 6.0 mm gap between the cylinders. For
the non-turbo charged engines, this was enough, but turbo-charged
engines produce much more heat, which has to be removed efficiently.
Reducing the bore is one of the ways to achieve this. Even today,
reducing the bore is a common practice to create a larger gap between
the cylinder walls to create larger cooling channels within turbo
charged engines. The four-valve M49/4 engine allowed a relatively low
turbo pressure. Usually, a boost of 1.3bar (18PSI) was used to yield a
neat 750hp @ 9000RPM. This high power output came with a relatively high
reliability of the engine. Although the CSL gearbox was not designed
for such a power, it held up rather well during the races. The practical
experiences with the M49/4 engine provided a basis for the development
of the later E26 ///M1.<br /> <br />All in all, the M49 engine and the E9
CSL where very successful in the Group 2 European Touring Car (ETC)
series. From 1973-1976, BMW won the championship in these series.
Although the last CSLs where made in 1974 and the last E9 coupe's left
the factory in December 1975, BMW Motorsport continued to support it in
1976, but could continue that in 1977 because it was an obsolete model.
This was a logic consequence of the introduction of the E24 6 series and
using the CSL longer would not benefit the sales of the new coupe.
Private teams continued to use the E9 CSL until 1978 and even managed to
win the European Touring car Championship (ETC in 1977 and 1978. The
following table shows an overview of the M49 engines which where used in
racing.<br /> <br /><br /><br /><br />Table 1, M49 engine family<br /> <br /><br />For
the group 5 series, Jochen Neerpasch wanted a mid engined racing car.
The development of the E26 ///M1 started in 1976. The idea was to
develop a racecar first and a road car second. Since BMW did not have
the capacity or the expertise to build a tube framed car, BMW Motorsport
contacted Lamborghini to help with the development and the production
of the chassis. But Lamborghini came into financial troubles and was not
able to fulfill its commitments to BMW. This delayed the production of
the E26 ///M1 with more than a year and by the time the production of
the ///M1 started, the rules for the group 5 touring car championship
where changed and ruled out mid engined sports cars. At that time,
Jochen Neerpasch had his new racecar, but could not use it. Max Mosley
of the FIA came up with a brilliant idea. A new race class was
established specially for the ///M1. This new race class, the Group 4
Pro Car series was scheduled to take place before a Formula 1 race with a
few formula 1 drivers and privateers.<br /> <br />The engine for the ///M1
was an evolution of the M49 engine of which the development stopped in
1977. However the new M88 had significant changes to allow it to be used
as a production engine for road cars. The same changes were made when
building the E26 ///M1 for sale as a road car, a requirement for the
group 4 regulations. The Group 4 rules required that 400 units of that
same car would be made within one year. The direct drive of the
camshafts by a gear train was abandoned for a direct chain drive to
reduce the interior noise. Like the M49, the M88 engine also used a
Kugelfisher mechanical fuel injection system. The cylinder head of the
M88 consisted of two pieces. The lower piece contained the intake and
exhaust ports, the valves and the spark plugs. The upper piece contains
the buckets, shims, camshafts and bearings<br /> Compared to the M49/3,
the M88 had a slightly smaller displacement (3453cc). This was achieved
by reducing the bore slightly to 93.4mm. However the stroke of the
engine remained the same (84,0mm). To test if the M88 engine would be
reliable for a production engine, BMW placed the existing SOHC drive
train on the M88 cylinder block. This engine, called M90 used a regular
Bosch L-Jetronic (predecessor of the Motronic) fuel injection system and
yielded 218hp.<br /> <br />The road going ///M1 used the M88 engine. The
M88 yields 277hp @ 6500RPM and 330nm @ 5500RPM. This was more then
enough to propel the 1418kg sports car in a little more than 20sec to
the 200km/h mark.<br /> <br />Since the E26 ///M1 was designed for racing
first, the M88 engine was heavily modified. For road use, the M88 is
tuned to offer a good compromise between tractability, engine longevity
and performance. Engine longevity is not that important for racing and
for group 4 and 5 Procar races a lot more than 277hp was required. New
camshafts, larger valves, reshaped ports, throttle slides instead of
butterflies, forged pistons and a completely different exhaust system
helped to increase the power to almost 500bhp. For Group 5 purposes, two
turbo chargers where added. This version is known as the M88/2.
Depending on the boost pressure, the power output was between 850bhp and
950bhp.<br /> <br /><br /><br /><br />Table 2, M88 engine family<br /> <br />With the
cease of the group 4 and group 5 races, BMW stopped to use the M88
engine for racing purposes and concentrated on developing race cars on
basis of the E21 and later the E30 3 series. But in 1983, the M88 was
used one more time to power the new top model of BMW, the E24
///M635CSI. The regular 635CSI lacked the power to compete with
Porsche's 928S and the Mercedes 500SEC. For the E24 ///M635CSI, the M88
was redesigned. The bore and stroke of the M88/3 engine remained the
same as the M88. Also six individual butterfly valves where used for the
M88/3. However, Bosch's Motronic, the first digital controlled
fuel-management system that was used in production cars, replaced the
M88's Kugelfisher fuel injection system. This allowed the compression
ratio to rise to 10.5:1. Thanks to these changes, the power output rose
to 286hp at 6500RPM. The torque rose slightly also to 340nm at 4500RPM.
This was 500RPM lower than for the original M88 engine and this helped
to improve the M88/3 abilities for daily use.<br /> <br />At the end of
1984, the M88/3 engine was also fitted in the E28 5 series. Unlike the
///M635CSI, the E28 version was not named ///M535I as this type was
already given to another E28 with the M30B35 engine. Instead, the name
///M5 was chosen. Already from September 1984 till February 1985, a
small number of E28 ///M5's where hand build by BMW Motorsport for a
happy few. It was not before February 1985 before the E28 ///M5 was
introduced to the public. In the mid eighties, unleaded fuel and the use
of catalytic converters became more and more common in Western Europe,
especially in the environment oriented Swiss and Austrian market's. The
M88/3 engine did not have a catalyst. BMW did not want to be accused of
being insensitive to the environment and decided against the
introduction of the E28 ///M5 at the important Geneva car show. Instead,
BMW released the E28 ///M5 at the Amsterdam car-show, reducing the
potential risk of bad environmental publicity in the widerinternational
press.<br /> <br />Despite that BMW already switched to a new engine codex
in 1983, the new 24-valve engine kept the family code M88. It was not
before 1986 when the S38 designation was used for the catalyst version
of the M88/3. The S38 stands for, 'S' means that the engine is
originated by BMW Motorsport, the '3' means that it is derived from the
M30 engine family and last but not least, the '8' is chosen to make a
reference to the legendary M88.<br /> <br />During the mid eighties, the
///M635CSI and the E28 ///M5 where only available in Western Europe. In
the United States, there was a small but significant demand for these
'European only' cars. This gap in the United States market was served by
'gray market' importing companies. Realising this, BMW North America
introduced Motorsport versions of the E24 and E28 in 1987, but their
specifications where changed to meet the demands of the American market.
To meet US exhaust emission regulations of that time, the catalyst
equipped S38B35 replaced the M88/3. The S38B35 kept the M88/3s bore,
stroke and cylinder head, but to install a catalytic converter, the
compression ratio decreased from 10.5:1 to 9.8:1. The equally tuned
exhaust headers of the M88/3 where replaced by log headers. Al these
changes decreased the engine performance. The S38B35 delivered 260hp and
a torque of 330nm (243lb/ft) at 4500RPM. The US E28 ///M5 and E24 ///M6
also had more options fitted, many of which in Europe could only be
bought by special order. As a result, the US cars where noticeable
heavier than the European cars and this had an impact to the cars
performance. The European E28 ///M5 can do the 0-100km/h (0-62mp/h)
sprint in just 6.5sec, while the US version needs 0.3sec more.<br /> <br />For
the US and Japanese markets, The ///M635CSI was renamed to ///M6, while
in Europe the ///M635CSI designation remained. The distinction between
the ///M6 and ///M635CSI is the engine. The ///M6 always contains the
S38B35 engine, while the ///M635CSI can have both. Despite the catalyst,
the majority of the E28 ///M5s and E24 ///M635CSI in Europe where
equipped with the M88/3 engine, thus no catalyst.<br /> <br />The production
of the last E28s ceased at the end of 1987 after which the E34 succeed
it. It was without any doubt that soon after the introduction of the
E34, also a Motorsport version became available. The E34 ///M5 was
available for the German market in September 1988. The engine which
powered the E34 ///M5 is a further evolution of the S38B35 engine which
powered the catalyst versions of both the E28 ///M5 and E24 ///M635CSI.
The E24 ///M635CSI remained in production until its demise in spring
1989. During that time, the M88/3 and S38B35 engine where by BMW
Motorsport alongside the S38B36. This was of benefit for the last E24
///M635CSIs because in their last production months, both the M88/3 and
S38B35 engines received the duplex timing chain of the S38B36.<br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Table 3, S38 engine family<br /> <br />To
create the S38B36, the S38B35 was stroked from 84.0mm to 86.0mm, the
same as the M30B35 engine. The stroke remained 93.4mm. This all
increased the displacement to 3535cc. Actually, this is 3.5 liter's and
not 3.6 as the type designation indicates. However to make a distinction
with the S38B35, the S38B36 engine was marked as a 3.6 liter engine.
Not only the stroke was changed. Also the Compression ration increased
from 9.8:1 to 10.0:1. The S38B36 delivered 315hp @ 6900RPM and 360nm
(269lb/ft) at 4750RPM.<br /> <br />The intake received an electronically
controlled RAM induction system to boost up the torque. A changeover
valve varies the effective length of the induction system depending on
load and engine speed. The changeover valve operates when the engine
speed is below 4120RPM and full throttle or the engine speed is above
6720RPM and full throttle. The engine management remained the Bosch
Motronic system, but instead of measuring the airflow with a valve, the
S38B36 received an airflow measurement system based on a hot-wire
sensor. In contrary to a conventional sensor with an air-valve and
potentiometer, hot-wire sensors measures the mass of the air and since
it is only a very thin wire, the air can flow to the intake-plenum
without restriction- reducing flow resonance and noise.<br /> <br />To
fulfill the exhaust emission regulations, a ceramic catalytic converter
has been added to the exhaust system. To control the emissions at
cold-engine start up an air injection feature for the exhaust has been
added. This system injects air into the exhaust system to convert carbon
monoxide into carbon dioxide and hydrogen into water. For Tropical
regions, for instance the Middle East and south East Asia got a slightly
different version of the S38B36. For these markets the compression
ratio reduced to 9.2:1.<br /> <br />In 1991, the E34 ///M5 got competition
by the Mercedes Benz 500E and of lesser importance, the Opel Lotus Omega
and the BMW-Alpina B10 Bi-Turbo. Neither the Opel nor the Mercedes
could match the ///M5 in character and driving abilities, but they where
more powerful. The Opel Lotus Omega has a twin turbocharged 3.6 litre
24-valve engine and was (a cheaper) competitor for Alpina's B10 Biturbo.
The 500E however was directly positioned as a competitor to the ///M5.
Compared to the E34 ///M5, the 500Es strength was its torque (the a 5.0
liter 32-valve V8 produced 480Nm). The 500E was approximately 100kg
heavier than the E34 ///M5, and was a polished autobahn performer. In
all other areas the E34 ///M5 chassis performed better however. Ever
keen to compete against Mercedes, BMW Motorsport redesigned the S38 to
gain back the "fastest 4 door saloon" title.<br /> <br />The bore and stroke
where increased one more time. As a result the displacement grew to
3795cc. Another significant change is the compression ratio that was
increased to 10.5:1. The intake and exhaust ports increased in size also
and each spark plug got it's own HV coil which eliminated the
distributor rotor and the high voltage wiring. A smaller and lighter
Emitec metallic type replaced the ceramic catalytic converter. The main
advantage of the Emitec metallic converter is that it increases the flow
of the exhaust gasses. The Bosch Motronic 1.2 fuel management system
was changed for the Motronic 3.3 system of the same manufacturer that
also includes the resonance flap control. This feature is the same as on
the S38B36, but with an extra switch-point at 2480RPM.<br /> <br />The
S38B38 was the last evolution within the S38 engine family and delivered
347hp @ 6900RPM and 409nm torque at 4750RPM. All these changes
stretched the S38 to its limit. The web spacing between two cylinders
with 5.4mm is extremely narrow. This is 0.6mm less that the M49/3 racing
engine. The S38B38 engine remained in production until the summer of
1995 when the last E34 ///M5s left the production facility in Garching.<br /> <br />For
the Swiss and Austrian market, the S38B38s where fitted with Ceramic
catalytic converter and the smaller exhaust manifolds (80mm vs. 90mm) of
the S38B36 engine. As a result, the Austrian and Swiss version did not
deliver 347hp, but 327hp.<br /> <br /><br />Post S38 period <br />S50B30, S50B32, S50B30 US and S52B32<br /> <br />In
1992, BMW introduced the E36 ///M3 coupe with the S50B30 engine. The
S50B30 is based on the smaller M50 engine family, but had a completely
new 24-valve head. All in the ///M tradition, this engine also has 6
individual butterfly valves. Completely new was the VANOS system to vary
the intake camshaft and thus the timing of the intake valves. This
means more torque at lower revs. The S50B30 engine measured 2990cc and
delivered 286bhp @ 7000RPM and 320nm @ 3700RPM. The US did not get this
expensive engine as it did not comply with emissions regulations.
Essentially the S50B30 US is just a bored and stroked M50B25 with VANOS,
meaning they skipped the 6 throttle bodies and the expensive head
construction resulting in an overall power loss of 46hp.<br /> <br />In
1995, the S50B30 was bored and stroked one more time to 3201cc. Other
significant changes are that the DME was now a system developed by BMW
and Siemens. Also the exhaust camshaft timing is controlled by VANOS.
Power rose to 321hp at a staggeringly high 7600RPM. The US again got a
detuned version without the S50B32's expensive cylinder head and intake
system. Compared to the S50B30 US, the S52B32 delivered the same power,
but more torque at lower revs. For the E46 ///M3 of 2000, this engine
was completely redesigned and thus called S54B32. Like the S38B38, this
engine is also stretched to its limit.<br /> <br />S62B50<br /> When the E39
succeeded the E34 in 1996, it took almost three years before it was
succeeded by the E39 ///M5. Originally, BMW did not plan a Motorsport
version of the E39 as it felt that the E39 540I and the E36 ///M3 4 door
would fulfill the demands of the E34 ///M5 owners. However the ///M5
customers did not buy that, probably since neither the E36 ///M3 or the
E39 540I are really exclusive cars. In 1997 BMW realised that and
started to develop the third generation of the E39 ///M5. The first
prototype was shown to journalists on the IAA car-show of 1997, but it
was not before December 1998 that the first E39 ///M5s where delivered
to customers. Instead of an inline six, BMW used the M62 V8 engine as
the basis for the S62B50 power plant with 400bhp. The E39 ///M5 turned
out as a very successful car, especially in the USA. Already in the
summer of 2001, BMW had manufactured more E39 ///M5's than E34 ///M5's
in a seven-year period! <br /><br />Unlike the E28 and E34 ///M5, the E39
///M5 was not hand build in Garching anymore, but manufactured on the
E39 production line in Dingolfing. Thanks to this, the German MSRP of
DM140000 for the E39 ///M5 in 1998 was almost the same as the customer
cost for the last E34 ///M5 in 1995.<br /> <br /><br />Developments related the S38<br /> M90<br />
The M90 was the first road going BMW engine with 3.5 litre
displacement. Originally this engine was used to test if the M88 engine
was reliable with the narrow web spacing of 6.6mm. This means that this
engine has exactly the same bore and stroke as the M88 and is directly
related. However instead of a DOHC cylinder head with 24 valves, BMW
used the SOHC cylinder head with 12 valves. The use of an electronically
controlled fuel management system (Bosch LE-Jetronic) allowed a
slightly higher compression of 9.3:1. Strictly, the M90 engine is not an
M production engine although the E12 ///M535I in which it is used is a
real M car. Until 1981, the M90 engine was used for the early 635CSI and
the very rare and delectable E12 ///M535I from 1980.<br /> <br />In 1981
and 1982, Alpina used the last batch of the M90 engine to power the last
versions of the B7 turbo versions of the E12 sedan and E24 coupe. For
the B7S turbo, the M90 has been modified extensively to allow the use of
a turbocharger. The B7S delivered 330hp @ 5800RPM and 500nm @3000RPM.
During 1981 and 1982, Alpina only made 60 E12 sedans and 30 E24 coupe's
in the B7S version.<br /> <br />M30B35<br /> To improve the reliability for
road use, BMW redesigned the M90 engine in 1981. This engine, called
M30B35 was slightly different. Compared to the M90, the M30B35 has a
larger stroke (86,0mm), but a smaller bore (92,5mm). The use of a
digital controlled fuel management system (DME) allowed to increase the
compression ratio from 9,1:1 to 10,0:1. Although the engine capacity
decreased slightly (3430cc vs. 3453cc), power and torque remained almost
the same. The M30B35 remained in production for almost 13 years and in
the late 1980's, catalyst versions where developed and offered for sale
also. The M30B35 has been used in the E23 735I, the E24/1 635CSI, the
E28 535I, the E28 M535I, the E32 735I and the E34 535I.<br /> <br /><br />This
engine was also used a lot by tuners and the tuners with a manufacturer
status such as Hartge and Alpina. Alpina examples are the E28 B7 turbo,
the E24/1 B7 turbo, the E28 B9, the E30 B6(S), the E28 B10 3.5, and the
E34 B10 3.5 and last but not least the E34 B10 Biturbo. In 1993, the
last 50 M30B35 engines where delivered to Alpina for the last 50 B10
Bi-Turbos.<br /> <br /><br />Table 4, M88 engine derivatives<br /> <br />S14B20, S14B23 and S14B25<br />
This engine family was developed in the early 1980's for use within the
E30 series where it had to power the new BMW touring car racer, the E30
///M3. The engine block was based on the cast iron M10 engine family.
The cylinder centres of the M10 (at 100mm) are the same as on the M88 so
this allowed BMW Motorsport to simply cut of two cylinders of the
existing M88 cylinder head. The bore (93.4mm), stroke (84.0mm) and
compression ratio (10.5:1) for the S14B23 where chosen exactly the same
as the M88/3. This created a displacement of 2302cc. Enough to deliver
200hp @ 6750RPM and 176lb/ft of torque at 4750RPM. With catalyst this
engine delivered 195hp and 169lb/ft @ 4750RPM. In Italy, there was the
320iS, a deviation of the E30 ///M3 to avoid the huge Italian taxes for
road cars above two liters. The 320iS simply used the 325iS-body style,
but powered by an S14B20 engine. The S14B20 has the same bore as the
S14B23, but a smaller stroke (72.6mm) resulting in a displacement of
1990cc. A compression ratio of 10.8:1 still allowed 192hp at a stunning
6900RPM.<br /> <br />In September 986, the first E30 ///M3's where sold to
their first customers and within the first year, more than 5000 units
where sold to meet the FISA Group A rules. 2396 where build in 1986 and
6396 in 1987 and thus easily satisfying the rule makers. It did not take
long before the first evolution versions arrived.<br /> <br />For the
evolution II models of 1988, BMW Motorsport fitted other pistons to
increase the compression ratio to 11.0:0. The displacement and the
cylinder head construction are exactly the same as the regular 2.3
liter. But now 220hp and 181lb/ft where available. In a later stage,
this engine with a catalyst became available for the E30 ///M3 Cecotto
and Ravaglia editions.<br /> <br />The last version of the S14 engine is the
S14B25. An increased bore (now 95.5mm) and stroke (87.0mm) increased
the displacement to 2483cc. The compression ratio remained 10.5:1. At
7000RPM this is enough for 238 hp and 177lb/ft @ 4750RPM. This engine is
used for the last 600 ///M30 evolution III, the most delectable of all
///M3s.<br /> The primary purpose for the S14 engine was to power the E30
///M3 touring car racer which raced in different European touring car
series of which the most important was the DTM (German Touring car
championship). For these many engine versions where made (S14/1 till
S14/7).<br /> <br />When the production of the E30 ///M3 ceased in March
1990, more than 17000 of these cars have been made and found their way
to very happy owners. In terms of nimbleness, driving satisfaction and
performance this may be the ultimate ///M car ever made. Apart from
these, more than 3000 320iS cars found their way to Italian customers.<br /> <br /><br />Tuner Efforts<br /> <br />Although
the engines from the S38 and M88 have a high state of tune when they
left the factory, for some this was not enough. Especially in the USA,
there was a demand for even higher power output. A few enthusiastic
companies served this niche in the market and offered tuning kit's that
could be acquired separately or together as a complete package. In
Europe, BMW's where mostly tuned as a complete package. Good examples
are companies like Alpina and Hartge. Hartge actually did tune the S38
engine family, but Alpina never touched a BMW-Motorsport engine.
Although many companies actually tuned the S38, it is undoable to
describe all efforts in this field.<br /> <br /><br />Dinan-BMW<br /> <br />Steve
Dinan grounded this California based company, almost 20 years ago.
Unlike many European counterparts, Dinan offers their performance
program as kits that can be bought seperately or as a complete package.
In 1986, Dinan developed a turbocharged version of the S38B35 engine.
For the E34 ///M5's S38B36, Dinan developed several tuning programs
known as Stages. Dinan's program starts with a modified DME, other cam
sprockets to retard the timing for more torque in the low en mid range
and a stroker kit to increase the S38B36 to 3,9 liters (3880cc). Added
to that, you can buy the companies modified camshafts. In the strongest
program, Dinan claims 402bhp (SAE). Even today, almost 9 years after the
last E34 ///M5 was officially imported into the US, Dinan still offers
these programs to the E34 M5 owners.<br /> <br /><br />Hartge<br /> <br />In
Europe, the S38 and M88 were less prone by tuner efforts. A Company that
did was Hartge. Hartge fitted hotter cams to the M88/3 and reprogrammed
the DME. erent cams and another DME program. With 330hp @ 7000RPM and
260lb/ft @ 3500RPM, this is a serious improvement. This engine was
fitted in amongst others the Hartge H5SP-24, their version of the E28
M5. Hartge also used this engine for the H36, an E30 ///M3 equiped with
the Hartge's modified M88/3. Only six of these beasts where ever build.<br /> <br />Notes:<br /> <br /><br />1.The
M30B35 was used in many ranges and cars. The most important are the E28
535I & ///M535I, the 635CSI after 1982, the E23 735I, the E32 735I
and last but not least the E34 535I.<br />2.All power figures in the article are DIN. According to SAE the power is slightly smaller.<br />3.The torque in lb./ft can be calculated by multiplying the nm. Figure with 0.73529 <br /><br /><br />References:<br /> <br />Acknowledgements:<br /> <br /><br /><br />1.BMW
Mobile tradition by person of Mr. Jakobson for providing technical
information about the M49, M88 & S38 engine families. <br /><br />
</div>
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<div>
<cite>tom4pope wrote:</cite>MyE28.com is the wild west of auto forums.<br /><br /><br />Source: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=113760</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-232258999755868452014-04-02T19:11:00.000-07:002014-04-02T19:11:49.431-07:00BMW’s Best Supercars? Italdesign BMW Nazca Concepts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_584" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzQeDqcrpj-F8x3dPdWeV83DpDUXnd8ttv1wueV9Ei5e1PuX-usuRorcl3kVLX93GThkmNd790YAVBppDlFQKA4Vmv3dq-4HUT5Bpu7fFIN0Mrjn3Z2dLIG-xCvbyeUHmvR2vk141CZ0/s1600/02-M12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzQeDqcrpj-F8x3dPdWeV83DpDUXnd8ttv1wueV9Ei5e1PuX-usuRorcl3kVLX93GThkmNd790YAVBppDlFQKA4Vmv3dq-4HUT5Bpu7fFIN0Mrjn3Z2dLIG-xCvbyeUHmvR2vk141CZ0/s1600/02-M12.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a>When you think of a “BMW supercar”
you might think of the iconic M1 or the newer i8 hybrid sportscar. But
there was another vehicle with a mid-engined layout, stunning
performance and wore BMW’s twin-kidney grille. The 1991 Italdesign BMW
Nazca M12 is a breathtaking blend of road and track attributes that
looked to the future.</div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: justify;">
Italdesign
is a famed Italian coachbuilder and design house. The outfit is home to
Giorgetto Guigiaro, who crafted stunning designs for Porsche, Ferrari,
Lamborghini, and some of BMW’s best cars (like the 3200 CS, M1 and 2008
M1 Homage Concept). The Nazca series of cars (M12, C2, C2 Spider), were
meant to combine elements of F1 cars and the amazing Group C racing cars
of the late 1980s and early 1990s.</div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe0a3FYxDOHB43Oo1P8p_jvXDk0GfanN1sl6VnycNtLN8TeZQMZSFvfFDUZ_FYQBYfp6nZYnN9Ndid92r5SqDwLDG9t4XIgs9ktk-lwkuUHUELMom02oflXSO3TmjAEhohigfRDbRdPA/s1600/02-C2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe0a3FYxDOHB43Oo1P8p_jvXDk0GfanN1sl6VnycNtLN8TeZQMZSFvfFDUZ_FYQBYfp6nZYnN9Ndid92r5SqDwLDG9t4XIgs9ktk-lwkuUHUELMom02oflXSO3TmjAEhohigfRDbRdPA/s1600/02-C2.jpg" height="260" width="400" /></a> Under the bonnet out back was a 300-horsepower 5.0-liter V12 from the
BMW 850i. It sent power to the rear wheels through a ZF manual gearbox
and a specially designed flange. The frame and the body are constructed
from carbon fiber, which was an even more exotic material then then it
is now. Weight for the vehicle was kept to just 2,400 pounds.</div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587">
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: justify;">
Additionally, the front spoiler was lowered, and spoilers were added to
the rear. Both were installed to bring the C2 closer to the driving feel
of being on a race track. Weight was reduced by 220 pounds, helping it
achieve a top speed of 185 mph.</div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Ke46Ob2oBU4qosJ6ACBivyqhnACzZNK_yIOS3ABSP_M_sUVemTdhXRP7QL7WRIYpuZDuspW_lQ3QDFfprO6ja0VKPRHyoutZ-FWGW-bOqvriZZwjhc1nVCHedGUCWqWd4UaDqvi6TVM/s1600/00-M12a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Ke46Ob2oBU4qosJ6ACBivyqhnACzZNK_yIOS3ABSP_M_sUVemTdhXRP7QL7WRIYpuZDuspW_lQ3QDFfprO6ja0VKPRHyoutZ-FWGW-bOqvriZZwjhc1nVCHedGUCWqWd4UaDqvi6TVM/s1600/00-M12a.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: center;">
Source: https://autos.yahoo.com/news/bmw-best-supercars-italdesign-bmw-nazca-concepts-170035681.html</div>
<div id="yui_3_9_1_1_1396486807388_587" style="text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-42955242051603085292013-05-10T10:30:00.002-07:002013-05-10T10:34:15.543-07:00Engine conversion S38-B36, 3.6<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01LafQxbNgOYb1xnSyhbqQNDpC3GExWMaWcvOaOsuOz4GO9-5fiQUtJd4q_l18UjAa5MIWNJ2DMKfpZecrnaj26n6sXw3wOfBT5_m9xM-BQd2VrdGiKb1PqzZdk3hEmKEcT-F0aobalQ/s1600/01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01LafQxbNgOYb1xnSyhbqQNDpC3GExWMaWcvOaOsuOz4GO9-5fiQUtJd4q_l18UjAa5MIWNJ2DMKfpZecrnaj26n6sXw3wOfBT5_m9xM-BQd2VrdGiKb1PqzZdk3hEmKEcT-F0aobalQ/s400/01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="3" style="width: 620px;"><tbody>
<tr><td align="center"><b>BMW 1990 Model E30 ///M3 Diamond Shwartz paint code 181/9,<br />
Engine conversion S38-B36, 3.6<br />
Sold from new in California, car with no rust.<br />
Euro Sport Evo Unique Cloth Interior including door panels<br />
Restored from bumper to bumper.<br />
VIN# WBSAK0311LAE33596</b></td><td align="center"><b><br /></b></td><td align="center"><b><br />
</b>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><b>This ad is for those who are interest in E30 M3 with engine conversion!</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><b>Please read my detailed
description if you are serious about this car! If you are not enjoy the
pictures. I know it’s too long but your question will be answered
inside.</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><b>Please be patient until all pictures download</b></td><td align="center"></td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><u>About me:</u></b> As a big
enthusiast of classic BMWs and Mercedes, I own and collect several cars
including: E24 M6's, E28 M5's, and two E30 M3's. My projects are all at
professional level. I am not a dealer in need to roll cars in order to
make money what so ever. The time and money I invest into my projects
are absolutely not worth it from the business point of view. It is all
about the passion!<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirfJptLW1f7EF0PzPMfXLTu32imbiNUGMjMaInii_8dqnNM4wrmzmGIS6ZuFzwPMZOy2-wPHgU32ud3ZlFEPpbLaWzOHA-e38aLvayr5r5VbDQfSnqfpoyTQ7BExcLjAy9aSJH5jch5hw/s1600/87.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirfJptLW1f7EF0PzPMfXLTu32imbiNUGMjMaInii_8dqnNM4wrmzmGIS6ZuFzwPMZOy2-wPHgU32ud3ZlFEPpbLaWzOHA-e38aLvayr5r5VbDQfSnqfpoyTQ7BExcLjAy9aSJH5jch5hw/s400/87.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE3XFanDPWZxEEBf1YEf59pcP_Ul3btJ-5lWyMilSiu_NVZz-mrm3_P45Ejnf7AR3HhdRqGcVv-AwVPqaaEESW9SbObyBhi5UiYTO6oDtSt2e_o_ir78S5zeYW1jJVkK9NvEX_dyqk8I/s1600/91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE3XFanDPWZxEEBf1YEf59pcP_Ul3btJ-5lWyMilSiu_NVZz-mrm3_P45Ejnf7AR3HhdRqGcVv-AwVPqaaEESW9SbObyBhi5UiYTO6oDtSt2e_o_ir78S5zeYW1jJVkK9NvEX_dyqk8I/s400/91.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZUCNbMGyslG5yaKWG4yG5nZeh_ByNfi9lcBe53XXYJP4CRZWBOLgdnzzKt7TEkMRIcA3F_nMi2n-lgefEWXOUiYVNIg-GOBm0BpewuxcYJEHNQ52grCpP0iVPMWqofuM7C0U-rWhrMk/s1600/98.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZUCNbMGyslG5yaKWG4yG5nZeh_ByNfi9lcBe53XXYJP4CRZWBOLgdnzzKt7TEkMRIcA3F_nMi2n-lgefEWXOUiYVNIg-GOBm0BpewuxcYJEHNQ52grCpP0iVPMWqofuM7C0U-rWhrMk/s400/98.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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</td>
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<td valign="top"><b><u>About my engine choice:</u></b>
As we all know, the S14 is M88/3 engine is without the 2 cyl. In my
engine choice, I decided to use the S38 engine or I was going to stay
with the beloved S14. In my opinion, the S38 is the best choice. The
first prototype 24valve engine developed by "Engine Kind" Paul Rosche,
it was coded M49/1/2/3/4/5. These engines were designed for <b>racing</b>
not for street use. They were used to race the E9 batmobile, E26 M1
etc. Later coded M88/1/3, S38-B35, S38-B36, S38-B38. Later on BMW put
them into street cars and designed these unique sport character street
cars with racing engines E30 M3, E28 M5, E24 M635CSi, E34 M5. The S14,
S38 engines will remain in the BMW Motorsport history as the main
successor on the BMW world map of racing! Another benefit of the S38
engine is that they have more torque in any rpm range compared to other
BMW 6cyl engines such as Euro S50-B32(321hp), S54-B32(333/343hp),
US52-B32(240hp), S50-B30(286hp) etc. Also, the S38 has a lot of reserve
potential to increase power compared to other bmw S-inline sixes already
squeezed to is maximum from the factory.<br />
<br />
I absolutely respect the factory S14-B23/B25. It's the ultimate 4
cyl engine of all time! I drove it for few years and I really enjoyed
the Factory engineering. As a kid I was inspired from the German
performance company "Hartge" H35-24 M88/3, and Alpina, who produced
about 6+/- E30 M3's with M88/3 Hartge, and M30-B35 Alpina. I can't
imagine how fast those cars were back in the days. </td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><u>What is the actual weight distribution?</u></b>
The true weight distribution of the real street factory E30 M3 is Front
51.0 and rear 49.0 depending on the car options. It's not exact exactly
50/50. I have measured few E30 M3's at my friends corner balance scale.
After my S38 conversion, the weight distribution increased by only 2%
at the front. That means 53.x% front and 47.x rear. This is with full
interior, spare tire, full liquids, trunk tools, all carpets etc. For
instance, my friend who owns a track toy Euro E30 323i with M30-B35
swap with complete strip down chassis and it has the distribution weight
of, are you ready…. Sixty~60 % Front and Forty ~40% rear!!! He is
absolutely able to keep up at Buttonwillow track with my other friend
with E92 M3, and E46 M3 and some other high performance cars with 50/50
weight distribution.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><i><u><b>How important is the weight distribution?</b></u></i>
Well, after the S38 conversion, the weight distribution is not bad at
all! If your life is dependent on supporting your family, and your form
of making money is racing exactly E30 M3, then I understand that purpose
of keeping the S14. But I don't think such a thing exists. I out
performed my friend's E30 M3 S14 powered in any circumstance.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><i><u><b>Exterior:</b></u></i>
Diamond Swhartz Metallic BMW (paint code 181/9). The body is completely
rust free with no damages. The car has been refinished to its original
color using OEM "Glasurit" paint. I have pictures before I started the
restoration. The car had the original factory paint! This car includes:
all new rubber moldings, evo rear spoiler with adjustable flap, new
euro head lights with clear bra protection, new oem yellow turn signals
as well new smoked turn lenses. Also includes: all new oem emblems, new
fog lights, new clear bra on all lights, and new front wind shield along
with a new carbon fiber light weight hood. Xenon lights with day light
bulbs operating as euro cars with combination of all lights available at
one time! (not available for US market). Sport Evo aero dynamic seal on
hood, rear bumper, front bumper and fenders. The car has been always
garaged or if outside covered!</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Interior:</u></i></b> is
with new original Sport Evo unique cloth interior, new m-techink
emblems, new leather on steering wheel, shifter boot, and hand brake
boot all include Tri-Color ///M stitching. New heater core, all new
interior bulbs, cluster has been customized to match the accurate rpm's
including new rpm graphic. The original S14 has never showed accurate
rpm even with a changed chip. The trip miles are set from 0 after the
completion of the S38 rebuild from the very first time I started the
engine. The oil life green lights are in working order, "Check control"
computer is clean with no warning lights, New ///M leather illuminated
shift knob, new central electric lock module. Speakers work perfectly.
Heater is in mint condition. AC is there and I can install the
compressor and charge the system if desired and it will work perfectly,
but from the performance point, I kept it out. Everything is working in
the car with no exceptions. Euro front grill. New BMW glove box flash
light. Extra power inside the glove box for anti radar or other
electronic dividers. New heater valve. OBC computer is matched to show
the correct MPG and the fuel to empty. That was very hard to match! Now
it's like a factory car. Original E30 M3 Manuals included.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Drive train: </u></i></b>
is the legendary S38-B36 from E34 M5 Note ( for those who do not know,
this is the second generation S38 found in E34 M5,the engine is NOT like
on US E28 M5, E24 M6). The engine has been completely rebuilt with all
new hard were, it is board to actual 3.6l. Note (originally is 3.5 )
The engine has 3.8 cam gears. I set them advancing the intake cam shaft
and retarding the exhaust in order for better cylinder filling. The head
is port and polished with matching headers and Intake trumpets horns.
All new guides, valve seals, valve adjustment, new JE pistons with
raised compression from 10.1 to 10.5. New bearings set, timing chain,
guides, new factory timing chain tenssioner. Also I have the brand new
S50 upgrade if needed but I like the factory better. This car also
includes: new modified custom fan blade, new Beru ignition wires and
cap@rotor. The intake filter was custom installed under the front bumper
in order to breathe cold air (very similar like dinan e39 M5 cold air
intake). Upgrade E32 740 brake booster , ABS unit has been relocated
under the brake booster in order to open spaces for the intake. Custom
engine brackets with using e36 m3 engine mounts. Upgraded cooling system
from S38-B35 in order to save weight and advantage of using different
thermostats. S38-B35 radiator, low temp auxiliary switch, Custom E24
windshield tank with filter , custom hose and wiring all work as
factory. All new water hoses. Custom radiator support works in order to
fit the water radiator and to look like factory set up, custom air
shroud, and custom cold air intake is located behind the drivers' side
fog light/bumper. Original diagnostic plug in working order. Car is
dynoed with the TMS chip at 283rwhp and 260rwptorque that comes to 333hp
at the engine. With the stock chip it pulls around 275rwhp. After the
dyno, I installed a stronger fuel pump and it immediately felt much
better after ! So there is few rwhp gain.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>What transmission I chose?</u></i></b>
My choice is well known and bullet proof throughout years of the
gearbox model: Getrag 260 model with 1st 3.83 ratio and 2nd 2.40ratio.
They are shorter gear ratios for faster acceleration compared to M5 280
Getrag 1st 3.51ratio, 2nd 2.20ratio the rest 3rd 4th 5th are the same
ratios. The tranny shift nice and tight. Gears do not grind, red line
oil. New seal, no oil leaks. Very healthy tranny. New Sachs original
clutch, single mass11 pounds fly wheel. I have 2 choices of differential
current on the car: 3.73lsd and also cruising 2.93lsd if desired.
Suspension is adjustable ground control, spring rate is 600 pounds front
and 750 pounds rear with sport bilsteins. Stock brakes work very well
for street fun.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Wheels:</u></i></b> : BBS
LM "style reps" Front 8J 225/35/18 rear is 9J 255/30/18. With these BBS
wheels/tires, the car shows accurate cluster speed mph matched the
Factory tire diameter! The car has been dynoed at "speedometer shop".</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>What kind of exhaust?</u></i></b> Definitely one of my favorite parts! The exhaust is custom made by <a href="http://www.euroclassicmotors.com/galleries/www.rennermotorsport.com">www.rennermotorsport.com</a> Hand made <b>Dual 2.5 inch</b>
starting from the headers made from U bends in order to keep the same
diameter all the way to the magnaflow muffler 2.5 dual inlet and dual
outlet with dual 3inch tips. Ceramic/metal cats! Note(I hate driving
without cats polluting the air we breathe! For 5hp gain NO tanks I will
keep them on the car). The car passes smog with flying numbers. I tested
it already at a smog station. No resonators to save some weight. The
engine flows amazingly. Yes, it's a little too loud according to my wife
and all my neighbors ☺ but I love it. The sound from the S38 is very
good with a deep sound similar to small v8 engines.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>After I completed the project.</u></i></b>
After I finished the project I drove about 3000-4000k brake in miles
with 1k-5k rpm range with few oil changes between. I was very careful to
brake in the engine properly. There were no problems, no overheating,
and no oil leaks! Nothing! It proves that everything is reliable and
holds as a factory car! I have covered so far total of 14.xxx miles with
absolutely no problems!</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Let's find out how fast the car is?</u></i></b>
Well, the car is definitely not as fast as C6 Z06 ! or anything like
that. Let's be real. In BMW world the car is fast! I did surprise lots
of E46 M3's, E39 M5, E39 540ietc. Also, I have a friend who has EVO IX
dynoed at 350rwp at all 4 wheels and we did rolling start form 40mph all
the way to 150mph and the cars were dead even. I was actually surprised
and pleased from my natural aspirated S38 engine AND my rear wing was
open! I forgot to close it and that was a big minus for me! We all know
how much drag the wing produces at high speed in order to keep down
force. So, if the flapper was closed it would be significantly faster.<br />
<br />
In
general, the car is super fun and fast to drive and makes you smile. I
made these few tests with my friend's cars just to see the final result
out of E30 M3 with S38-B36 swap. This E30 M3 has never been tracked or
abused. It's too nice to take to the track. For fun, I am building an
E24 M6 turbo monster for a track toy so I can abuse it without worrying
about damages, rock chips, etc.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>About this S38-B36 project:</u></i></b>
As you can see from the pictures my goal was to make it as close as
possible to the factory look. This project took approximately 2 years to
complete. The car as you can see in the pictures is 100% done.
Including complete restoration paint, engine custom work modifications,
Interior etc. I spent more than 500 documented hours on this project! I
got tired counting and dumped the book I used to record the hours. Not
to mention counting the hours was worthless. To complete this precise
job, time should not count! The quality of this car will show that this
was NOT a 2 weekend S52 fast swap.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Why I am selling this beautiful car?</u></i></b>
I have my dream Euro engine coded S38-B38 I nick named it “The Ultimate
S38 engine” and it will go into my second E30 M3 Diamond Shwartz and I
will keep that car for life. According to BMW Motorsport factory
“S38-B38 is the most powerful 6cyl engine BMW has ever produced ! It is
originally 3.8 euro 340hp with 295torque as much as S65-B40”. I have a
second car and this will be my garage toy for life. So I have another
hobby project to keep me busy ☺.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>What is the asking price?</u></i></b>
The car itself, engine S38, euro Evo cloth interior, with complete body
restoration, custom work, tons of parts, and including the fact that I
spent so much time (+500hours) and money on this project, the
investments exceed more than +45k $. I am offering this car for the low
price of $29,785. Offers are accepted near/by the asking price. If you
think my price is actually as much as a very clean E46 M3 with super low
miles, it is true, BUT, my opinion is that this E30 M3 is a lot more
rare, unique and fun to drive compared to some regular E46 M3 seen on
every corner and stop light. Not to mention it will hold its value and
increase in value. This car is a turn key, fill 91 gas and enjoy. You
will not be disappointed from my car!</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b><i><u>Title</u></i></b> is California and in my possession. It is a clear title, <b>NOT</b> salvage, no accidents. <b>CarFax</b> does not show correct miles from the 90's. Chassis has around 168k miles. All fresh S38-B36 has 14.768 miles.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top"><b>Here is a <a href="http://www.euroclassicmotors.com/galleries/e30m3_newparts.html">list of parts</a> I have changed with part number.</b>
As you can see from the pictures my goal was to make it as close as
possible to the factory look. This project took approximately 2 years to
complete. The car as you can see in the pictures is 100% done.
Including complete restoration paint, engine custom work modifications,
Interior etc. I spent more than 500 documented hours on this project! I
got tired counting and dumped the book I used to record the hours. Not
to mention counting the hours was worthless. To complete this precise
job, time should not count! The quality of this car will show that this
was NOT a 2 weekend S52 fast swap.</td>
</tr>
<tr align="left">
<td valign="top">My contact information is 323.702.XXXX<br />
<br />
Source: <a href="http://www.euroclassicmotors.com/galleries/E30M3.html">http://www.euroclassicmotors.com/galleries/E30M3.html</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-19652899105024684332013-05-10T08:12:00.002-07:002013-05-10T08:12:34.485-07:00e21 Wheels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghfPuFRs2d2Hr5OLD3Krw3R5AozymtPjW5fFGYJmrILf2WtAOLjyqp9A5kr3_Fxll0f2VQdw_gozn5aQeS3Dng_Jr8mVcPBFSC2nSIh4HL8y2-JxoI8h7NHBJvLuYMyB1bg-ukUk6Yu9E/s1600/001-BMW320iWheels-0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghfPuFRs2d2Hr5OLD3Krw3R5AozymtPjW5fFGYJmrILf2WtAOLjyqp9A5kr3_Fxll0f2VQdw_gozn5aQeS3Dng_Jr8mVcPBFSC2nSIh4HL8y2-JxoI8h7NHBJvLuYMyB1bg-ukUk6Yu9E/s400/001-BMW320iWheels-0001.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Left to right:<br />
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Exim 13x6<br />
BBS 13x5.5<br />
Gotti 15x6 et30ish<br />
Weds Bavaria 15x6.5 (5)<br />
BBS Mahle 15x7 et13<br />
BBS Mahle 15x7, 15x6 et13<br />
Weds Bavaria 15x7, 15x6.5 </div>
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Source:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1863892-Recycled-82-e21/page2 </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-84269456243658848842012-12-16T17:13:00.001-08:002012-12-20T22:04:09.865-08:00Wheels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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like most eurotrash wheels/rims as some call them dominate the build process...for the past 2 years i have searched websites...i have bought magazines...i have looked at wheels on cars while on vacation...its time...i ultimately want BBS RS 001 4x100 7-8's staggered...color is probably best suited for a graphite color...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_TGEQ6qr8u0hQZ56fOqNpT_hkkxiYPnx_wmNWIc1W5-XrG4aGSMcA35al0ni9iGnhNzZk94pjvtINNDLEgLdiK3RR2iq3IUfekqGf15eJAVSsflzTRiE4GukCpRAQajmUKFIARAWW8k/s1600/Enkei92Wheels15x8.0-4x100ETA+25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_TGEQ6qr8u0hQZ56fOqNpT_hkkxiYPnx_wmNWIc1W5-XrG4aGSMcA35al0ni9iGnhNzZk94pjvtINNDLEgLdiK3RR2iq3IUfekqGf15eJAVSsflzTRiE4GukCpRAQajmUKFIARAWW8k/s400/Enkei92Wheels15x8.0-4x100ETA+25.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Resources: <span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=ENKEI-465-580-4925BK&Category_Code=ENKEI-92">http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=ENKEI-465-580-4925BK&Category_Code=ENKEI-92</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrl15NT6I6lHZI0ef3q0KMOo-Pq8_jGv7dgGzTWwIspRGYqHNLyQh_maeZUuUf9X6Swo9sA3xAtMutKjwixC11Wiws67T93GbRh6GtPGuFP-iYb9WahTCDAuufmNsQySwFh_VrU02QrVM/s1600/SSRMS3RWheel-16x7.5-4x100ETA+32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrl15NT6I6lHZI0ef3q0KMOo-Pq8_jGv7dgGzTWwIspRGYqHNLyQh_maeZUuUf9X6Swo9sA3xAtMutKjwixC11Wiws67T93GbRh6GtPGuFP-iYb9WahTCDAuufmNsQySwFh_VrU02QrVM/s400/SSRMS3RWheel-16x7.5-4x100ETA+32.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Source: <span style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=SSR-MS3R-1675-32-54mm&Category_Code=PROF-MS3R-16</span><br />
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<img alt="http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/images/rt-15-d.jpg" class="decoded" height="370" src="http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/images/rt-15-d.jpg" width="400" /></div>
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<a href="http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/wheels.html">http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/wheels.html</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-37249938235102850492012-12-01T00:27:00.003-08:002012-12-01T00:27:25.665-08:00how to fix sagging sunroof handle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<strong>how to fix sagging sunroof handle</strong>
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so i own 2 <a class="kLink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225#" id="KonaLink0" style="font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static; text-decoration: underline !important;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;"><span class="kLink" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom: 1px solid blue; color: blue ! important; font-family: inherit ! important; font-size: inherit ! important; font-weight: inherit ! important; position: static;">bmws</span></span></a> with <a class="kLink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225#" id="KonaLink1" style="font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static; text-decoration: underline !important;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;"><span class="kLink" style="color: blue !important; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;">crank</span></span></a> sunroofs and my <a class="kLink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225#" id="KonaLink2" style="font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static; text-decoration: underline !important;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;"><span class="kLink" style="color: blue !important; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;">e30</span></span></a> had this same problem...so i figured i do a little easy how to on fixing the very common sagging sunroof <a class="kLink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225#" id="KonaLink3" style="font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static; text-decoration: underline !important;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;"><span class="kLink" style="color: blue !important; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;">crank </span><span class="kLink" style="color: blue !important; font-family: inherit !important; font-size: inherit !important; font-weight: inherit !important; position: static;">handle</span></span></a>
....basically what happens over time is the metal eventually gets
pushed away and wont hold the handle in place anymore very easy to fix:<br />
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if you can see in this pic there is a small round divot in the side of this metal this is what holds the handle up<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/hendrixvodu/IMAG0604.jpg" /><br />
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there is a round ball that slides into each divot and holds the handle up snug <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/hendrixvodu/IMAG0605.jpg" /><br />
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all you need to do is take the 2 ends of the metal and either take a
pair of pliers or put it in a vice and push it back together and your
handle will hold nice and snug again!!<br />
<br />
push ---> <--- br="br" push="push">
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/hendrixvodu/IMAG0606.jpg" /></---></div>
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Source: <a href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225">http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1591225</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-1215788560587283582012-12-01T00:09:00.000-08:002012-12-01T00:09:36.427-08:00Exhaust<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<img alt="http://www.factoryworks.com/whole%20system.jpg" class="decoded" src="http://www.factoryworks.com/whole%20system.jpg" /></div>
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i need to follow up with this and decide what i'm going to do with regards to the car's exhaust system...i have a 2.0L exhaust manifold and this system would fit well with that application...i also have a set of headers that are currently fitted to the rebuilt M10 engine and its likely the system i'll fit to the car...i wonder if its possible to buy separate specific components of the exhaust system that the Old Man sells is possible..</div>
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<a href="http://www.factoryworks.com/320iexhaust.htm">http://www.factoryworks.com/320iexhaust.htm</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-75877401709450322422012-11-11T22:10:00.003-08:002012-11-11T22:12:12.121-08:001962 Mini Classic Mini - Mid-engine Mini Special<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- The ultimate Mini collectable for any car enthusiast</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">-
This little car hauls ass and will embarrass any street Porsche,
Ferrari, Lamborghini, Viper, Corvette, etc., etc., in the corners.</span></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Fits drivers up to 6'2" and 215 lbs ( I am).</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Corners like it is on rails with a very low CG and a sub 4 second 0-60 acceleration time and top speed of approx 140 mph.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Custom VTEC mid engine layout with full race DOM and mild steel tube-frame and full carbon fiber body</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Several thousand hours over 10+ years for construction Highly Documented Build </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Build book published by Kurt Bilinski, kimini.com</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Street Registered!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Trackday / Autocross Weapon of Choice</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- 1595 lbs</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Honda Prelude VTEC Engine</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- 2.2 L, flashed ECU, with est 240 hp, 175 lb-ft</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Aluminum Flywheel</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Custom Stainless Exhaust and Aluminum Intake</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Fuel Safe 10 gal Fuel Cell</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Griffith Aluminum Water Radiator</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Honda Transmission</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- 5 speed trans with Quaife Limited Slip</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Tilton Pedals and Cockpit Adjustable Brake Bias </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Carbon Fiber Body</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Adjustable Koni Shocks and Springs</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Rocker Arm Front Suspension</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Kumho V710 tires</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- Carbon Dash</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">- SPA & Autometer Gauges </span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-72073032586692513812012-10-28T18:34:00.001-07:002012-12-01T00:27:42.002-08:00carpet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Quote:</div>
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Originally Posted by <b>Jester323</b>
<a href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=21964503#post21964503" rel="nofollow"><img alt="View Post" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://images.bimmerforums.com/vb3images/buttons/viewpost.gif" title="View Post" /></a>
</div>
<div style="font-size: 11px; font-style: italic;">
NOS original looped wool pile doesn't exist anywhere. <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://images.bimmerforums.com/smilies/frown.gif" title="Frown" /><br />
<br />
(except in my loft) <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://images.bimmerforums.com/smilies/1shifty.gif" title="shifty" /></div>
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<b>fullswing</b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><br />
I just got looped carpet in Charcoal Grey (sort of salt and pepper) from<br />
<br />
Quality Fabrics & Supply<br />
(805) 385-3222<br />
648 Pacific Ave<br />
Oxnard, CA 93030<br />
<br />
Tell Art your friend "Jose" with the old unpainted BMW, i.e. yours truly
(as it's the name on my cc) who just bought carpet referred you. They
special ordered it for me from one of their suppliers and got it the
next day. I gave a 50% deposit. Total was about $140 picked-up for 4
yards of Carpet 600's 40"-wide "Loop" Charcoal Grey.<br />
<br />
Not the first time I've purchased from them. They are the local
distributor for almost all of the upholstery shops in the Ventura
County. They have all sorts of vinyl, carpet, foam, tools, etc. They
might be able to get it dropped shipped to you directly.<br />
<br />
Let me know if you want a picture of what I just got. Note that it was
not molded or anything. Just a rolled-up carpet. It will require some
work. Art said it was meant for VWs.<br />
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-63170863487390695892012-10-28T17:56:00.002-07:002012-10-28T18:01:04.184-07:00BMW E21 55 MPH Shimmy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
guys iver in the bf.com were discussing front suspension shimmy...TomD suggested the following...<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">if I was chasing a shimmy I would go in this order:</span></span><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">check steering rack bushings - replace if necessary</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> sway bar to control arm bushings<span style="font-size: small;">(Bflan<span style="font-size: small;">2001 Suggested)</span></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">check tie rod ends - replace if necessary</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">rebalance tires</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">check condition of tires - replace if necessary</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">check front shocks - replace if necessary</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">after doing all of the above if shimmy still present then</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">replace tires</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">rebuild rack</span></span></li>
</ul>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-9044773008763756252012-10-20T20:27:00.002-07:002012-12-01T00:28:07.593-08:00m52 acceleration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
very cool. i rarely send out videos. this is worth watching if you like BMW's...or, race cars. lol<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QFZjkuTJDM&feature=related">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QFZjkuTJDM&feature=related</a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-57312385534770350752012-10-15T18:53:00.003-07:002012-10-15T18:53:58.728-07:001980 FJ40<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h1 class="vi-it-itHd">
1980 Toyota Land Cruiser </h1>
<h2 class="vi-it-itSbHd">
1980 FJ40 35" MICKEY THOMPSONS, CHROME WHEELS, OX WINCH, ROLL CAGE</h2>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-30627851236412121302012-10-10T23:05:00.002-07:002012-10-10T23:06:35.182-07:00Bavarian WEDS Wheels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<strong>1975 - 1983 <span style="font-size: xx-small;">(E21)</span></strong> <span class="smallfont">(1975
- 1983) The original 3 Series. Known for its unique body styling and
racing heritage, the E21 3 Series is a light, nimble, tail happy sports
sedan with classic late 70's lines offering a connection to the road
that few newer cars can match.</span>
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#<a href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=25234081&postcount=1" id="postcount25234081" name="1" rel="nofollow" target="new"><strong>1</strong></a>
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Yesterday, 07:30 PM
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<a class="bigusername" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/member.php?u=253443">kdonn</a>
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Join Date: Dec 2009</div>
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Location: Vista</div>
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Cars: '82 BMW 320is</div>
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Posts: 169
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<strong>F.S. Weds Bavaria 15x6.5, 15x7 et16</strong>
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Set of 4 Weds Bavaria Wheels staggered 15x7 and 15x6.5. The offset of all wheels is about 15.875.<br />
<br />
I set one 15x6.5 on a scale and it weighed 13.6 lbs. More pics available if interested. <br />
<br />
These are 2 piece wheels. They started life as a 3 piece but were
welded together at the factory by Weds. The centers can be unbolted for
refinishing etc.<br />
<br />
$1,000+ shipping. Local pickup preferred in 92084 but I can bring them
to Socal Vintage if a deal is struck ahead of time. I just shipped a
similar set to Ohio and it ran $100 fully insured.<br />
<br />
There are 2 spots that were repaired. I've taken a number of pics of
the repaired area. The lip appears to have had some curb damage that
was ground down and polished leaving a "dip" in the lip of one wheel. I
have shot 3 angles of that area which is included in the web album for
viewing. Second repaired area is at the back of one barrel and appears
to be a bend that was hammered back into place. Looks ugly but appears
straight. No cracks. <br />
<br />
The lips are polished and the rears could use a cleaning. The centers
where recently repainted gold. The caps are a mix and the previous
owner attempted to make "weds" stickers which look good in pics but are
starting to peel.<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding the offset. <br />
<br />
by my measurements the wheels measure 7.5in(190.5mm) to the outer edge. <br />
from the back of the hub to the edge of the wheel they measure 4.375in(111.125mm) <br />
<br />
190.5/2 = 95.25-111.125 = -15.875 so I guess they are et15.875 <br />
<br />
correct me if i'm wrong. <br />
<br />
Thanks for looking.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dfRGNEOQLW0/UGncv4o8TCI/AAAAAAAAK-U/9_ooWAxQCyY/w523-h392-p-k/20120930_170028.jpg" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nF4AgbmuDak/UHXqccIsvSI/AAAAAAAALHE/etS-lHBUJJY/s799/20120930_164727.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Backside<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K_oOG1cgwO8/UHXpIIgHatI/AAAAAAAALFw/LvwrzfkIVNk/s799/20120930_165608.jpg" /><br />
<br />
15x7 rears</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-28699731867348380072012-10-09T10:53:00.002-07:002012-10-09T11:06:27.340-07:00Projekt Brutus<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Translated Source: <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focus.de%2Fauto%2Fgebrauchtwagen%2Foldtimer%2Fprojekt-brutus-fuer-den-ritt-auf-der-kanonenkugel_aid_624608.html&act=url">http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focus.de%2Fauto%2Fgebrauchtwagen%2Foldtimer%2Fprojekt-brutus-fuer-den-ritt-auf-der-kanonenkugel_aid_624608.html&act=url</a></span></span></div>
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<div class="leadIn">
Fürs Museum war ihm der Motor viel zu schade.
Deshalb hat Hermann Layher den 46 Liter großen Zwölfzylinder aus den
Dreißigern in einen 100 Jahre alten Rennwagen gebaut. Wer damit fährt,
wähnt sich am Steuer eines Sturzkampfbombers.</div>
<div class="textBlock" id="textBlock" rel="0">
Denn obwohl der Chef der
Auto- und Technikmuseen in Sinsheim und Speyer nun wirklich genügend
Spielzeuge hat, macht ihm wahrscheinlich keines so viel Spaß wie die
rauchschwarze Rennzigarre. Dafür gibt es gute Gründe. 46 gute Gründe
sogar, um präzise zu sein. Denn genau so viel Hubraum hat der
Zwölfzylinder, den seine Museumswerkstatt unter die endlos lange Haube
geschraubt hat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEBkYI8SxxmwkgrmDn9ze0upFpmGnEljjXWQCGwogq1XLv5wpBAdRHe63Yq7vZrLw2nt7WJTpgelgWrMTmv0ZuDETONjRuO04krOjSXNBcpIGYjCOniMlSTT-qNsb6BmhvhrOUS3DmZY/s1600/BMW-engined_Brutus_from+1925_46.0-liter_carbureted+V12+engine+with+543+hp+405+kW+at+1530+rpm+Brutus1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEBkYI8SxxmwkgrmDn9ze0upFpmGnEljjXWQCGwogq1XLv5wpBAdRHe63Yq7vZrLw2nt7WJTpgelgWrMTmv0ZuDETONjRuO04krOjSXNBcpIGYjCOniMlSTT-qNsb6BmhvhrOUS3DmZY/s400/BMW-engined_Brutus_from+1925_46.0-liter_carbureted+V12+engine+with+543+hp+405+kW+at+1530+rpm+Brutus1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
<h2>
Flugzeugmotor für richtig Schub am Boden</h2>
Das
Kraftwerk, das fast zwei Meter lang ist und aus der Karosserie drängt
wie die Oberweite von Pamela Anderson aus ihrem Bikini, stammt von <a href="http://www.finanzen100.de/aktien/bmw-wkn-519000_H1001430129_81490/" target="_blank" title="Aktie: BMW WKN-519000">BMW<img class="chartIcon" height="10" src="http://p4.focus.de/fol/pics/icons/chart_10_b.png" width="16" /></a>
und wurde in den Dreißiger Jahren vor allem für Jagdflugzeuge gebaut.
Messerschmitt, Heinkel oder die Flugboote von Dornier setzten auf das
Stahlgebirge aus Bayern, das beim Start 750 PS und im Reiseflug gut 500
PS leisten konnte. Und zwar ohne dass der Drehzahlmesser über 1500
Touren ging. Nur beim Sturzkampf waren kurzfristig 2000 Umdrehungen
drin.<br />
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„Dieser Motor stammt aus einem Flugzeug, das offenbar im
spanischen Bürgerkrieg eingesetzt wurde“, erzählt Manfred Fink aus der
Museums-Werkstatt: „Dort hat ihn ein Sammler nach mehr als 50 Jahren auf
dem Schrottplatz entdeckt, so kam er in das Arsenal des Auto- und
Technikmuseums.“ Bevor er auf einem Bock in der Halle ausgestellt werden
sollte, wollten die Techniker eigentlich nur wissen, ob der
Zwölfzylinder noch läuft. Doch als sie ihn nach ein paar langen Wintern
tatsächlich wieder zum Leben erweckt hatten, war das Spektakel so
imposant, dass Museumschef Layher den Plan kurzerhand geändert hat: „Der
ist für die Ausstellung viel zu schade, der muss wieder ans Werk, und
zwar am besten in einem Auto.“</div>
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<h2>
Die Methode der Rekordbrecher</h2>
Diese
Idee hat unter passionierten Schnellfahrern schon Tradition. Nicht erst
heute, wo sie auf den Salzseen von Utah um die Bestzeiten jagen, werden
Jettriebwerke oder Raketentreibsätze genutzt. Sondern auch die
Geschwindigkeitsrekorde aus den Zwanziger und Dreißiger Jahren wurden
meist mit Rennwagen gefahren, die sich kurzerhand von Flugzeugmotoren
befeuern ließen.<br />
<br />
Ganz in diesem Sinne nahm die Museumsmannschaft
das Chassis eines American-La France von 1908 samt Holzrädern und
Kettenantrieb, schraubte vorn den Motor über die Achse und hinten als
Gegengewicht einen viele hundert Liter fassenden Tank, zimmerte darüber
einen Holzrahmen und dengelte aus Aluminiumblech eine Karosserie gleich
einem Torpedo – fertig war die Höllenmaschine. „Ganz so einfach war es
zwar nicht“, sagt Mechaniker Fink mit Blick auf das jeweils halbe
Dutzend Kühler und Anlasser, das sie an dem Monster-Motor verschlissen
haben. Doch nach insgesamt acht Jahren stand der Wagen tatsächlich zur
Jungfernfahrt bereit.</div>
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<h2>
Brutus bringt unachtsame Fahrer um</h2>
Wer
den Wagen heute in Aktion sieht, der kann sich lebhaft vorstellen,
welcher Schrecken dem Team um Layer damals in die Glieder fuhr. Als
hätten sie den Leibhaftigen zum Leben erweckt oder die Tore der Hölle
geöffnet, brüllt der Zwölfzylinder so laut, dass die Wände wackeln. Die
Umgebung versinkt in einem schwarzen Nebel, in den Augen beißen Schwefel
und verbranntes Öl, und rings um den Wagen kocht der Asphalt – kein
Wunder, dass die Mechaniker unter dem armdicken Auspuffrohr bisweilen
sogar ihre Mittags-Würstchen grillen. Spätestens da war Hermann Layer
klar, dass es für diese Maschine nur den Namen „Brutus“ geben kann. „So,
wie der damals seinen Herrn umgebracht hat, so wird es jedem gehen, der
bei diesem Höllenritt nicht teuflisch aufpasst.“</div>
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Das erklärt auch, weshalb weder Layer noch seine
Mechaniker den Wagen je ausgefahren haben. Denn wenn bei nicht einmal
1500 Touren bis zu 750 PS toben und unglaubliche 10 000 Nm an den
filigranen Ketten zur Hinterachse zerren, fühlt man sich wie beim Ritt
auf der Kanonenkugel. Da heißt es, ganz, ganz vorsichtig sein – zumal im
viel zu engen Fußraum dummerweise auch noch Gas und Kupplung vertauscht
sind. „Ein Fehltritt kann Dein Ende sein“, warnt Mechaniker Fink. „Viel
mehr als 120, 140 Sachen haben wir uns deshalb nicht getraut“, räumt er
ein und erzählt voll Anerkennung von jenem waghalsigen Haudegen aus
England, der auf der Teststrecke schon mal Tempo 200 geschafft hat.
„Dann war er mit seiner Leistung am Ende.“ Der Fahrer, wohlgemerkt,
nicht das Auto. Denn Brutus geht so schnell die Luft nicht aus.</div>
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Original Source: <a href="http://www.focus.de/auto/gebrauchtwagen/oldtimer/projekt-brutus-fuer-den-ritt-auf-der-kanonenkugel_aid_624608.html" target="_blank">http://www.focus.de/auto/gebrauchtwagen/oldtimer/projekt-brutus-fuer-den-ritt-auf-der-kanonenkugel_aid_624608.html </a><br />
<br />
<br />
Translation:<br />
<br />
Museum for him the engine was much too good. Therefore Hermann Layher has built the 46 liter twelve-cylinder from the thirties in a 100-year-old race car. Who drives it imagines, at the wheel of a dive bomber. <br />
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Even though the head of the Auto and Technik Museum in Sinsheim and
Speyer now has enough toys really makes him probably none as much fun as
the black race cigar smoke. There are good reasons. 46 good reasons even, to be precise. For the same amount of displacement, the twelve-cylinder engine, the museum's workshop has screwed under the endless canopy. <br />
<br />
<h2>
Aircraft engine thrust is right at the bottom </h2>
The power plant, which is almost two meters long and drives them out of
the body, such as the bust of Pamela Anderson in her bikini comes from <a href="http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.finanzen100.de/aktien/bmw-wkn-519000_H1001430129_81490/&usg=ALkJrhjqZ9aBdmpzZAx1CysUrEtlYKPNng" target="_blank" title="Share: BMW WKN 519000">BMW</a> <a href="http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.finanzen100.de/aktien/bmw-wkn-519000_H1001430129_81490/&usg=ALkJrhjqZ9aBdmpzZAx1CysUrEtlYKPNng" target="_blank" title="Share: BMW WKN 519000"><img class="chartIcon" height="10" src="http://p4.focus.de/fol/pics/icons/chart_10_b.png" width="16" /></a> and was built in the thirties especially fighters.
Messerschmitt, Heinkel and Dornier flying boats that sat on the steel
mountain of Bavaria, which was at the start of 750 hp and cruise afford
good 500 horsepower. And this without the tachometer went over 1500 tours. Only when falling short battle 2000 revolutions were inside. <br />
<br />
"This engine is from a plane that was used apparently in the Spanish
Civil War", Manfred Fink told from the Museum Workshop: "There he has a
collector discovered after more than 50 years in the scrap yard, so he
came into the arsenal of the car - and technology museum "before he was
to be issued on a stand in the hall, the engineers wanted to know if the
twelve-cylinder engine is still running..
But when they had him actually after a few long winters brought back to
life, the spectacle was so impressive that museum director Layher has
changed the plan without further ado: "It's for the exhibition would be a
shame to have to work again, on and that best in a car. " <br />
<br />
<h2>
The method of record-breaker </h2>
This idea has been a tradition among avid fast drivers. Not only today, where they hunt on the salt lakes of Utah at the best times, jet engines or rocket propellants are used.
But also the speed records from the twenties and thirties were mostly
driven race cars, which were unceremoniously fueling of aircraft
engines. <br />
<br />
In this spirit, took the museum team, the chassis of an American La
France from 1908 including wooden wheels and chain drive, screw-forward
engine on the axle and the rear counterweight comprehensive one several
hundred gallon tank, timbered over a wooden frame and dengelte aluminum
sheet a body is equal a torpedo - that was the bomb.
"It was not quite that simple though," mechanic Fink says, looking at
the latest half dozen cooler and starter they have worn to the monster
engine. But after eight years, the car was actually ready for the maiden voyage. <br />
<br />
<h2>
Brutus kills inattentive drivers </h2>
Anyone who sees the car in action today, who can vividly imagine what horrors the team then went to layers in the limbs.
As if they had brought the Incarnate to life or open the gates of hell,
the twelve-cylinder engine roars so loud that the walls shake.
The surrounding area is sinking into a black mist into the eyes bite
sulfur and burnt oil, and around the car cooks the asphalt - no wonder
that the mechanic under the arm-thick exhaust pipe sometimes even cook
their lunch sausages. By then Hermann layer was clear that this machine can only give the name "Brutus". "So, as the time has killed his master, it will go to anyone who is not paying attention in this hell ride devilish." </div>
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This also explains why neither Layer nor his mechanics have extended the car ever.
Because rage if not even 1500 tours up to 750 hp and 000 Nm to pull an
incredible 10 the delicate chains to the rear axle, you will feel like
you ride on the cannon ball.
As it is, entirely, be very careful - especially in far too narrow
footwell unfortunately also accelerator and clutch are reversed. "One misstep can be your end," warns mechanic Fink.
"A lot more than 120, have 140 things we dare not, therefore," he
admits, and says full recognition of that daring warhorses from England,
who has on the test track ever managed to pace the 200th "Then he was with his performance at the end." The driver, mind you, not the car. For Brutus is so fast the air is not enough. </div>
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...<br />
Projekt Brutus: Für den Ritt auf der Kanonenkugel - weiter lesen auf
FOCUS Online: http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c</div>
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<br />
<br />
YouTube: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pcRRk0msas&feature=player_embedded">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pcRRk0msas&feature=player_embedded</a></div>
<div style="height: 0px; position: absolute; top: -1000px;">
<div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;">
...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDq4D1hcZrxf1ZcuT0v8noCblum-2khnBfuCTo_uhwIpYLJXj5Mw881007xoYf0kJP7sBuWzAkaPL3Rc4y83WbgO5casLNxueeSimMglNI8rPvddieNNQQaGkGdCJaEetSDXrFIcGMes/s1600/BMW-engined_Brutus_from+1925_46.0-liter_carbureted+V12+engine+with+543+hp+405+kW+at+1530+rpm+Brutus9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDq4D1hcZrxf1ZcuT0v8noCblum-2khnBfuCTo_uhwIpYLJXj5Mw881007xoYf0kJP7sBuWzAkaPL3Rc4y83WbgO5casLNxueeSimMglNI8rPvddieNNQQaGkGdCJaEetSDXrFIcGMes/s320/BMW-engined_Brutus_from+1925_46.0-liter_carbureted+V12+engine+with+543+hp+405+kW+at+1530+rpm+Brutus9.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Projekt Brutus: Für den Ritt auf der Kanonenkugel - weiter lesen auf
FOCUS Online:
http://www.focus.de/auto/gebrauchtwagen/oldtimer/projekt-brutus-fuer-den-ritt-auf-der-kanonenkugel_aid_624608.html</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-30487365561300327192012-10-06T07:07:00.003-07:002012-10-06T07:07:47.737-07:00Paint<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
this website allows for e21 color comparsions...<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
http://www.e21-board.de/wbb//farbtabelle/normal.html</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-80019969578375328522012-09-29T22:55:00.002-07:002012-09-29T22:55:36.654-07:00Bleeding the E21 Brakes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table class="contentpaneopen"><tbody>
<tr><td align="left" colspan="2" valign="top" width="70%"><span class="small">Written by steve kupper </span>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="createdate" colspan="2" valign="top">
Sunday, 08 March 2009 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" valign="top">
<div>
Use DOT 3 brake fluid. Use only brake fluid that has not been
opened. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, moisture boils before brake fluid,
boiling water does not stop 2002s.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Three pints should be on hand to change out the brake and clutch systems.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Three methods discussed. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<strong>Gravity</strong></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Fill the reservoir, open the bleed screws and let the brake fluid leak everywhere overnight.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<strong>Old fashion way - need a partner or helper.</strong></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Protect the area around the reservoir, brake fluid removes paint, unpainted metal rusts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
2. Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
3
Start at the right rear. Get a big bottle with a hose to it. The hose
needs to be the size that will fit tightly over the bleeder screw. Here
is what I use. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<img alt="Image" border="0" height="600" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/brake_bleed/brakebleedingtools.jpg" title="Image" width="800" /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
The
bottom of the jug should have some fluid in it. Keep the tube submersed
in the old fluid to keep air from being sucked back into the system.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
4. Put the closed end side of a 8mm or 7mm wrench on the bleeder screw then put the hose over the bleeder screw.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
5. Ask your helper to get in the car, pump the brakes slowly five times and on the fifth time hold to the floor.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
6.
While the brakes are held, quickly release the bleed screw a bit and
watch for bubbles. Quickly close (after counting one-thousand one one
thousand two) the bleeder screw and tell the helper they can release the
brake. Get this sequence absolutely correct. Pump, Hold, Release and
close the bleeder screw, then and only then, release the brake pedal.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
7. Repeat the process until you do not see any bubbles. Use a good light near your work so you can see the bubbles.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
8. Keep checking the level of fluid and top off as needed.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
9. Repeat the process on the driver's side rear.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
10. Now move to the passenger's side front. Bleed in the same manner in the sequence of Upper, Inner and Outer (UIO)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
11. Move to the driver's side and bleed like the passenger's side front.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
12. Always checking the level of fluid in the reservoir and topping off as needed.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<strong>Power Bleeder method.</strong></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Same as the old fashion method but you need a power bleeder and the helper can go fix dinner.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
2. Fill the reservoir.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
3. Attach the power bleeder to the reservoir and pump to 10-15 psi.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
4.
Bleed as old fashion way, (no pumping the brake pedal with the power
bleeder) keeping an eye on pressure and fluid in the reservoir.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Note: some folks fill the bleeder with fluid, I do not.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I guess there is another way but I do not know how to do that. That method uses a vacuum tool like a Mighty Vac</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Brake fluid is nasty stuff, clean up real good and through away the rags or wash them good before you reuse.</div>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Source: <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/94/32/">http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/94/32/</a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-58620631804436307122012-09-29T22:53:00.004-07:002012-09-29T22:54:10.076-07:00Bleeding your Clutch<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table class="contentpaneopen"><tbody>
<tr><td align="left" colspan="2" valign="top" width="70%"><span class="small">Written by BillWilliams </span>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="createdate" colspan="2" valign="top">Sunday, 08 March 2009 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" valign="top">Mike taught me a way to bleed the clutch system on a five speed that makes things pretty simple.
<br />
<div>
Get a pump type oil can from your local hardware,dedicate it to
brake fluid. Put a section of tubing on it that fits the spout on the
oil can and the bleeder screw.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<img alt="Image" border="0" height="600" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/clutch_bleed/bleedingclutch7.jpg" title="Image" width="800" /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Fill
the can with your favorite brake fluid, connect the tubing to the
bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open and start pumping.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Have an assistant watch your reservoir to let you know when the reservoir is full and no bubbles.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Close the bleeder screw.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Bob's your uncle. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Source: <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/93/32/">http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/93/32/</a></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-77611031256995813802012-09-29T21:52:00.000-07:002012-09-29T21:52:06.034-07:00M10 Carb Installation<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table class="contentpaneopen"><tbody>
<tr><td class="contentheading" width="100%">Weber Downdraft Carburetor Installation Guide </td>
<td align="right" class="buttonheading" width="100%">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1923451463377860776" title="PDF">
<img align="middle" alt="PDF" border="0" name="image" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/M_images/pdf_button.png" /> </a>
</td>
<td align="right" class="buttonheading" width="100%">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1923451463377860776" title="Print">
<img align="middle" alt="Print" border="0" name="image" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/M_images/printButton.png" /> </a>
</td>
<td align="right" class="buttonheading" width="100%">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=1923451463377860776" title="E-mail">
<img align="middle" alt="E-mail" border="0" name="image" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/M_images/emailButton.png" /> </a>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<table class="contentpaneopen"><tbody>
<tr>
<td align="left" colspan="2" valign="top" width="70%">
<span class="small">
Written by Glenn Stephens and Rob Shisler </span>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="createdate" colspan="2" valign="top">
Saturday, 03 September 2005 </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2" valign="top">
<span class="subtitle">Introduction:</span> <br />
<div class="sub">
This article deals with the most commomly upgraded-to '02 downdraft
carburetors, the Weber 32/36 and the 38/38. The carbs are named for
their throttle diameters in millimeters. The 32/36 is also a sequential
carb, meaning that first the smaller 32mm throttle butterfly opens,
then as the throttle is opened further the second, 36mm throttle opens.
On the 38/38, both 38mm throttles open simultaneously, giving smoother
overall response and more power. <br />
<br />
</div>
<span class="subtitle">Choke Types:</span> <br />
<div class="sub">
There are three popular types, designated by the : manual choke (designated
by the model suffix DGx), water choke (DGAx), and electric choke (DGEx).
Because fuel does not atomize well when the motor is cold, the choke's
purpose is to enrichen the mixture during those cold starts by cutting
off the supply of air. On the 32/36 and 38/38 downdraft this is accomplished
by the square butterfly valves at the top of the carb inlet. The throttle
plates themselves are at the base of the carb. <br />
<b>Manual Choke: </b>The manual choke has a cable-actuated mechanism
allowing the driver to manually set the amount of choke they need for
cold startup. Many people prefer them for their simplicity and the level
of control. When installing or adjusting a manual choke cable, obviously
the idea is to allow for a full range of movement of the choke plates,
from wide open to snapped shut. The only connections to a manually choked
carb are a vacuum takeoff for the distributor (optional), and the choke
cable itself. There is a kit available to retrofit the 32/36 either
electric or water choke with a manual control, and this kit also works
with the 38/38.<br />
<b>Water Choke:</b> The water choke is semi-automatic. To activate
it, you depress the accelerator all the way which causes the choke cam
to catch with the butterflies closed. Water from the engine block is
run into the choke housing which heats the mechanism and allows the
choke to open as the engine warms up. The water choke requires a small
water hose to the engine block and the manifold. There are an optional
electrical connection to a solenoid which goes to a temperature sensor
in the manifold, and a vacuum port for the distributor. <br />
<b>Electric Choke:</b> The electric choke is essentially a timing circuit
made of a bi-metal coil attached to the choke pivot. When you turn on
the ignition on a cold morning, the choke is normally closed. As the
electricity begins to heat the coil, it slowly contracts and opens the
choke plates. Thus it is important to avoid leaving the ignition on
on a cold morning without starting the car because you will open the
chokes without realizing it, and thus make it harder to start when you
finally do try to start it. The electric choke requires, not surprisingly,
a 12-volt ignition-switched and fused source. The easiest places to
get + 12v for a car not normally equipped with an electric-choked carb
is from the + side of the coil, or from the #12 fuse (later 12-fuse
cars) or #11 fuse (early 12-fuse cars) or the + terminal of the coil.
There is a vacuum advance port for the distributor (optional). <br />
To adjust the electric choke, with the air cleaner off and the car
cold, loosen the 3 screws surrounding the plastic cover of the electric
choke mechanism. Rotate the plastic cover until the choke butterfly
valves are just closed. This is the choke position. Start the car and
get it to idle. As the choke and the car warm up, the butterflies should
open to a straight up position - takes about 5 minutes. If they open
all the way, then tighten down the 3 screws and you are good. If not,
turn the plastic cover until they are straight up, then tighten. <br />
<br />
<br />
</div>
<span class="subtitle">Manifolds:</span>
<div class="sub">
There were two types of double-barrel manifolds that originally came
on '02s: the "Peanut" manifold and the regular two-hole one.
These were both designed for the 32/36. In addition, there was a performance
manifold made for these cars back in the day by Cannon for people who
upgraded to 38/38s or 40/40s. This manifold was "Hogged" out
so that instead of two seperate holes, or a single peanut-shaped hole,
there was a single large oval hole for better airflow. It is pretty
easy to make this modification to either of the stock-type manifolds.
Any type of carbide metal cutting tip for a die grinder will do the
job, or a jigsaw/carbide grinder tip combination. Just cut the basic
shape clean with a jigsaw (make sure the blade wont bottom out inside
the manifold!) and then use the carbide grinder to clean up things.
<br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hogged_and_stock2hole640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="253" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hogged_and_stock2hole350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>"Hogged" intake manifold and stock two-hole.</i>
</div>
<div align="center">
</div>
If you dont want to "hogg" out your manifold, you can simply
enlarge the holes with a carbide-tip grinder, as mentioned above. The
easiest way to do this is by tracing around the gasket with a marker.
Glenn used abrasive cylinders and cones on an air-driven die grinder.
You could also use a drill or a dremel. Make it a smooth, but it does
not have to be polished. There is actually some disagreement about polishing
the intake tract of a street car, because the turbulence created by
the uneven cast surfaces can actually enhance the mixture of fuel and
air, and therefore give you better combustion. This is a controversial
point, so you may want to come to your own conclusions about it after
doing your own research. While you are at it, you may also want to bore
out and/or polish (?) the cylinder inlet runners to match the size of
the holes in the head. Using the gaskets as templates is, again, the
easiest way to do this.
<br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/peanutman1close640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="352" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/peanutman1close350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Stock "peanut" style manifold.</i>
</div>
<div align="center">
</div>
In addition, 1974 and later vehicles have a hole in the end of the
manifold for an EGR valve. Depending on your local smog laws, you may
decide to remove the valve and plug the hole, either with a threaded
plug or a metal plate. A 58mm circular aluminum plate works perfectly.
There are three studs that can be tapped down and cut off for mounting
the plate. Put some RTV around the hole for good measure. <br />
<br />
<span class="subtitle">Manifold Connections:</span> <br />
<br />
The manifold has two large water inlets, one the bottom and one on
the firewall side. These are used to circulate water through the manifold
which are designed to help with fuel vaporization during engine warm
up and in cold weather. Hot-weather enthusiasts often just bypass them,
but early-risers who have to drive to work in the cold would do well
to keep them connected. Typically there is also a small water nipple
on the end of the manifold that is used as one of the connections for
a water choke. In other applications you can cap this with a bolt and
copper washer or run a hose to the connection on the rear of the engine
block.
<br />
There are lots of little nipples on the later manifolds used for vacuum
connections for the emissions systems. Again, depending on your local
smog laws, you may want to remove all that stuff and block them off
with rubber caps or plugs. There is a large nipple that should be connected
to your brake booster with a check valve in the middle. The valve should
be situated so that vacuum can be held in the booster after engine shutdown.
Between the 3rd and 4th intake runner is a threaded hole where the sensor
for a water choke solenoid can go. Other applications can remove the
sensor. On the bottom of the later manifolds is a temperature switch
which is used for emissions. It is a wet connection so if you are desmogging,
either leave the sensor unconnected or plug it with a bolt and copper
washer. <br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/emissions1-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="197" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/emissions1-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<br />
<div align="center">
<i>Later-model Emissions Loom that is replaceable by
single wire from #12 fuse to + side of Coil.</i></div>
<br />
To remove the manifold, disconnect all the hoses and remove the 12mm
nuts from the studs. There is another bolt that attaches to the starter.
There is no need to pull the starter. Some of them are tough to reach
but just be perisistent. LABEL all the wires and hoses you intend to
keep, and once they and the fasteners are removed, the entire manifold/carb
assembly will pull right off. <br />
<br />
<span class="subtitle">Linkage:</span><br />
Most carb kits come with a proper linkage for your vehicle, but you
may find yourself adapting your old linkage or using or making your
own cable linkage. <br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage1-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="263" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage1-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Stock-style rod linkage installed on 38/38 carb.</i></div>
<br />
For a stock shaft-style linkage, adjust the throttle control shaft
(carb to firewall shaft) so it is level and straight - inline with the
carb. This is done with the pivot bracket on the firewall. Then adjust
rod end (on rod coming up from pedal box to control shaft) to achieve
full throttle opening when depressing gas pedal. You can look through
the windshield at the rear of carb to confirm full opening. Place the
spring as shown with the long arm down and hook toward the engine bay
so that it does not catch on the heater hose. <br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage3-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="350" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage3-350.jpg" title="Image" width="274" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Rod-type linkage at firewall.</i></div>
<div align="center">
</div>
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage2-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="242" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38linkage2-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Rod-type linkage at carb.</i></div>
<br />
If you are replacing the stock shaft linkage with a cable setup, Rob
suggests making your own from commonly-available bicycle cable parts
and perhaps some hand-made cable "stays." What you need is
about two feet of cable including the shroud (get high-end teflon-lined
cable), two metal brackets that you can make yourself, and two adjustable
cable housing retainers such as you find at the end of the cable shroud
on a bike brake cable, for example. You will also need the two cable
clamps that hold the actual cable itself to the end of the lever arm
attached to the throttle pedal, and the one that attaches to the throttle
mechanism on the carburetor itself.
<br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_cablelink_atcarb-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="268" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_cablelink_atcarb-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>38/38 Carb and Cable Linkage Detail</i>
</div>
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_lowerstay3-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="350" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_lowerstay3-350.jpg" title="Image" width="246" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Fuzzy pic of Lower Cable Stay Bracket.</i>
</div>
The lower cable stay is bolted to brake booster bracket via the large
main bolt that holds the upper pedal box "arms" in place.
A simple 90-degree angle and hole set the cable end above the arm attached
to the throttle pedal. You will need a similar type of rotating cable
end clamp to fit in the hole at the end of the throttle arm as you have
for the throttle mechanism at the carb itself. Please note in the picture
of the lower stay (above) that the cable exits the lower stay at a severe
angle. This is the way the thing was installed in my parts car, and
it, among other problems, caused severe binding.
<br />
When I moved the cable setup to my project car, I fixed all these details
and "tuned" the operation of the cable (shortening it, and
chamfering the outputs of the cable housing end holders) itself so that
only the carb spring itself would pull the cable up and close the throttle.
I also actually used two more springs (one at the pedal box and an additional
one at the carb) as failsafes, however, but its nice to have a nice,
smoothly operating cable without any binding. Overall, the kit produced
by a well-known Southern California (non-'02-specific) performance tuner
that I inherited in my parts car, and its subsequent installation by
a well-known local independent BMW shop, were of such alarmingly poor
quality that the throttle would often bind up and not close fully even
with ALL THREE springs installed. No more of that!
<br />
<br />
<span class="subtitle">Jetting and Tuning:</span><br />
<div class="comment">
First let me (Rob) ask everyone who knows what their
carb setup is to PLEASE email your jetting, cam, compression, exhaust
system, and displacement information, as well as comments about how
the engine performs, to
<a href="mailto:tomdkent@surfmk.com">Tom Kent</a>
,
who is the FAQ site's Jetsmaster. He is compiling a database of various
setups and we would like to include this information in an appendix
to this article for reference purposes (obviously). Its YOUR help in
this that makes this site work the way it does. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!</div>
Carbs must be jetted to match the performance characteristics of your
other engine and exhaust modifications (compression, header, cam, etc.)
There are 3 kinds of jets on a downdraft Weber: Idle, Main, and Air
Correction Jets. The idle jet can be changed easily but main and air
correction jets require you to unhook the choke lever (small circlip),
remove the 6 screws on top of the carb, and pop the top. <br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38jets2-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="263" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38jets2-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Idle Jet Location for Weber Downdraft Carbs</i></div>
<div align="">
<br /></div>
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38jets1-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="263" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/38jets1-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Main and Air Jets Locations Inside Carb Assembly</i></div>
<br />
</div>
<div class="sub">
</div>
<br />
Tuning a carburetor can be a maddening and very rewarding experience.
As of this writing, we can only offer advice on how to diagnose and suggestions
on how to tune your Weber downdraft. Eventually, the FAQ will have the
aforementioned Setup Database that will allow you to simply match your
engine/exhaust specs to a table, and chose the Jetting setup that looks
like the best match. Of course all engines are different, but this will
help to give a lot of people a head start in fine-tuning their performance.<br />
Understanding how to tune a carburetor begins with understanding the
basics of air-fuel ratio as it relates to car engines. Gasoline vapor
burns most efficiently at a ratio of 14 parts air to one part of fuel.
This "ideal" ratio is often referred to as "Lambda."
However just because this is the most efficient ratio, doesn't mean it
is the TRUE ideal for your particular application. Modern fuel-injected
cars often run at VERY lean settings of 16:1 or more while just cruising
along, but can also instantaneously adjust themselves to much more powerful
settings of as little as 12:1. (More fuel per unit of air produces more
power, up to a certain point).<br />
With carbureted cars, this level of electronic adjustability isn't available
so we have to set up our cars based on our usual driving style or, for
enthusiasts, to produce the most power (or some trade-off therein). <b>It
is important to know that a carb that is running too lean will tend to
"race" or "surge" as you accelerate through the powerband,
whereas one that is set up to run too rich will tend to "bog"
or "stumble."</b> Knowing those characteristics will help you
to diagnose and tune your own setup.<br />
If your carburetor was shipped from a dealer that knows '02s, it is highly
likely that it is set up for at least a stock '02 configuration. This
can provide you with a good baseline for making subsequent adjustments.
Certain vendors can in fact set up a carb based on their experience for
whatever setup you happen to have in your car. Carbs "rescued"
from a junkyard, e-bay, etc., however, may have been set up for any number
of different situations and may require extensive tuning. Furthermore,
enthusasts who change other aspects of their engines' performance hardware
will always want to re-jet for the new changes.<br />
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_fuelpump_andline-640.jpg"><img alt="Image" border="0" height="259" hspace="6" src="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/weber_dd/hweber_fuelpump_andline-350.jpg" title="Image" width="350" /></a>
</center>
<div align="center">
<i>Proper kink-free installation of Fuel Line from stock
Mechanical Fuel Pump</i></div>
<br />
What follows are links to several online sources of MUCH more extensive
info on how to tune a carburetor for various setups. Also please note
that the <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_phpshop/Itemid,51/">FAQ Store</a>
now carries a full line of <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_phpshop/Itemid,51/">NEW
Webers, parts, jets, RamFlo Air Filters, etc.</a>, at super-low prices,
and the profits from any sales help to keep the FAQ site going! And, as
always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to post
them to the <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/">Message Board!</a>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Source: <a href="http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/18/32/">http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/18/32/</a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-47933721116779807512012-09-28T23:07:00.001-07:002012-09-28T23:07:39.950-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwkb0bfO166wVjGrWE1sg7q7ClzoWgizqcdyZaR87hYVDuyxMlfXmLLP9XqzUMOcPQC6fZ1rBmqO3Mmt04LOfuOGAPJjhJX_8h04nybPZiyVHgEArZAC1jWaRcqguoSRc9FMDxKAKb3k/s1600/rearbumpersupportforrear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwkb0bfO166wVjGrWE1sg7q7ClzoWgizqcdyZaR87hYVDuyxMlfXmLLP9XqzUMOcPQC6fZ1rBmqO3Mmt04LOfuOGAPJjhJX_8h04nybPZiyVHgEArZAC1jWaRcqguoSRc9FMDxKAKb3k/s400/rearbumpersupportforrear.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
this is the rear valance of a euro-conversion...notice the bumper</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-60951342611452240942012-09-22T13:11:00.001-07:002012-09-22T13:12:55.832-07:00A Dream: E28 M5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a class="title" href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28m5info">E28 M5 / M535i - 1985 to 1987</a><br />
<br />
<b><img height="59" src="http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ljxy5qkdw51qivhvio1_250.jpg" width="131" /></b><br />
<b>What makes the E28 M5 unique?</b><br />
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/exteriors/E28_M5_Early_Exterior.jpg">E28 M5</a> is the BMW Motorsport-developed version of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28 5 Series</a>. It uses the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/M88_Engine_2.jpg">M88</a> or <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/S38_Engine.jpg">S38</a> twin-cam 24-valve inline-six first introduced in <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e26">the M1</a>. It also has a BMW Motorsport-tuned chassis and a few special cosmetic pieces. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Where was the E28 M5 first introduced?</b><br />
The M5 debuted at the 1985 Amsterdam Motor Show. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Where was the E28 M5 built?</b><br />
Unlike <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28info">the other E28 5 Series models</a>,
M5s were assembled by a small group of BMW Motorsport technicians who
mated the drivetrain and interior trim with pre-painted bodies
transported from the Dingolfing factory. This hand-assembly took place
in one of two facilities, depending on the production date. E28 M5s
produced before September of 1986 were assembled at BMW Motorsport’s
original Preussenstrasse location near the BMW AG headquarters in
Munich, while <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s built beginning in 9/86 were assembled at the newly-opened BMW
Motorsport headquarters in Garching, roughly 100 kms (60 miles) east of
Munich. The only exceptions were M5s produced for the South African
market, all of which were assembled at BMW’s Rosslyn, South Africa
factory from German-supplied Complete Knock Down (CKD) kits. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b><img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2rst0KL1qh3t6o.jpg" /></b><br />
<b>Why was BMW sued by American E28 M5 owners?</b><br />
When BMW of North America first anounced the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 in late 1986, production was said to be limited to 500 cars. But by
the time production ended in November 1987, however, almost triple that
number had been produced. Thus, a class action lawsuit was filed against
BMW by <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5
owners who claimed that the collector’s value of their cars was
diminished by the greater volume. The company settled the case by giving
these owners a rebate on the purchase of a new BMW.<br />
<b>Why are all North American-spec E28 M5s officially 1988 models if the last example was made in 1987?</b><br />
This was most likely a marketing decision. With the M5 originally intended to be a limited edition of 500 cars, and with <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28info">the entire E28 range</a> due to be replaced by the E34 for 1989, perhaps BMW of North America wanted to keep the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 exclusive by offering it only for the final 1988 model year. Also,
it is worth noting that production of the other 1988 5 Series models
began in early 1987, so the M5 preceeded these by only a few months. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Why are all North American E28 M5s essentially identical?</b><br />
Because the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 was hand-assembled, yet needed to be manufactured for the North
American market in relatively large numbers within a relatively short
amount of time, BMW of North America was forced to limit the model’s
specification to just two color schemes: Black (086) with a Natur (tan)
leather interior and (officially for Canada only) Black (086) with a
black leather interior. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Why is a North American E28 M5 with a black leather interior so rare?</b><br />
Though
a Natur (tan) extended leather interior was the only official interior
color choice for the U.S. market, Canada insisited on giving <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 buyers the second option of a black extended leather interior. The
black interior option was later expanded to the U.S. market at the very
end of <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5 production. In total, 102 <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s with a black interior were produced for North America, of which 72
were built to Canadian specification and the rest to U.S. specification.
<img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2t1x3LZ1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
Production Data <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>How many versions of the E28 M5 were developed?</b><br />
BMW Motorsport built four different versions of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5, three at the M works in Garching, Germany (European-spec in
left-hand drive and right-hand drive, plus the North American version)
and a South African-spec model for the home market assembled from
Complete Knock Down (CKD) kits. Only the North American version utilized
the catalyst-equipped S38 version of the M88 motor. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>How many of each version were produced?</b><br />
<b>ECE</b> (LHD without catalyst): 588 produced from 10/84 through 9/87<br />
<b>ECE</b> (RHD without catalyst): 187 produced from 3/86 through 11/87<br />
<b>NA</b> (LHD with catalyst): 1,340 produced from 11/86 through 11/87<br />
<b>SA</b> (RHD without catalyst): 96 produced (assembled from CKD kits) from 6/87 through 11/88* <br />
<i>*Dates shown indicate final completion of vehicles assmebled in Rosslyn, South Africa.</i> <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What changes were made to the E28 M5 during its production?</b><br />
Though all North American-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5s are essentially identical, there were some alterations to the European-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5 that occurred over the course of its production. These include:<br />
-Change from “M” shift knob lapel (with shift pattern as sticker on
ashtray lid) to regular shift pattern lapel (early 1985 production)<br />
-Change from light grey to anthracite headliner and trunk liner (early 1985 production)<br />
-Introduction of optional BMW Sound System (11/85 production)<br />
-Introduction of optional driver-side airbag (11/85 production)<br />
-Introduction of different rear springs (2/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of optional Shadowline (dechromed) exterior trim (5/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of (optional in most markets) 16-inch cross-spoke alloy wheels (5/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of Boge (in place of of Bilstein) shocks (approximately 10/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of 25mm (front) and 18mm (rear) anti-roll bars (10/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of map lights in rear-view mirror (10/86 production)<br />
-Introduction of door sill plates with the “M5” logo (10/86 production)<br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2u1ZEPs1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
<img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><b>Does every example of the E28 M5 utilize a “WBS” VIN prefix?</b><br />
Starting with the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5, all products from BMW Motorsport GmbH were assigned a “WBS” VIN
prefix to distinguish them from the non-M BMW AG vehicles, which
retained a “WBA” prefix. However, the first 26 left-hand drive ECE
examples of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5 were produced with the regular WBA prefix. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Why do most sources list the total production of North American-spec M5s at 1,370 instead of 1,340?</b><br />
Most
sources (including BMW AG itself) list the total production of North
American-spec E28 M5s (USA and Canada combined) at 1,370 units. However,
this figure does not consider a major flaw in the BMW production
database that lists 30 additional VINs which do not, in fact, actually
exist. Thus, the accurate figure is 1,340. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Of the 1,340 North American-spec E28 M5s, how many were built to Canadian specification?</b><br />
A total of 102 <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s were built to Canadian specification, while the remaining 1,238
were built to U.S. specs. Aside from minor differences in
instrumentation (imperial versus metric), U.S. and Canadian <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5s are identical. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2vfexnd1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
Drivetrain <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What makes the M88/S38 engine unique?</b><br />
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/M88_Engine_2.jpg">M88</a> and <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/S38_Engine.jpg">S38</a> engines are evolutions of the 24-valve inline-six developed for <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e26">the mid-engine M1 supercar</a>.
Like that engine, both the M88 and S38 share a displacement of 3,453cc
(via a bore of 93.4mm and a stroke of 84mm), and both have a four-valve
crossflow cylinder head (with 37mm inlet valves and 32mm exhaust valves)
designed for better breathing at high rpm. However, for their
application in the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5, the M88 and S38 have unique pistons and connecting rods, as well as
more advanced Bosch Motronic fuel injection/engine management. To save
costs, both engines utilize the standard steel M30 crankshaft and
wet-sump lubrication system. Many other smaller items, such as the
ignition system, are shared with the regular 5 Series as well. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>How do the M88 and S38 engines differ?</b><br />
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/M88_Engine_2.jpg">M88</a> is the non-catalyst version of the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/S38_Engine.jpg">S38</a>
engine. With a 10.5:1 compression ratio, 264-degree camshafts, and a
single-row timing chain, it is identical to the one found in the
non-catalyst versions of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e24">E24</a> <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/m6info">M635CSi </a>coupe. Power is rated at 286 hp (DIN) at 6,500 rpm with 251 lb/ft of torque at 4,500 rpm. The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/M88_Engine_2.jpg">M88</a> can be identified by the BMW Roundel and only the words “M Power” on its valve cover.<br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf49zLINu1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/S38_Engine.jpg">S38</a> s the “clean” version of the M88 motor, introduced to allow <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s sold in the United States and Canada to comply with North American
emissions regulations. It utilizes a duplex (double-row) timing chain,
248-degree camshafts, and features a lower 9.8:1 compression designed to
work with catalytic converters. This reduced the horsepower to 256 hp
(SAE) or 260 hp (DIN) at 6,500 rpm and torque to 243 lb/ft at 4,500 rpm.
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/S38_Engine.jpg">S38</a> can be identified by the words “BMW M Power” on its valve cover. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What kind of gearbox does the E28 M5 have?</b><br />
All <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s have the Getrag 280/5 five-speed manual gearbox. Gear ratios are as
follows: 3.51 (1), 2.08 (2), 1.35 (3), 1.00 (4), .81 (5). A 3.73:1
final drive is fitted to all but the North American <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5, which uses a 3.91:1 rear end. All have limited slip differentials with a maximum locking of 25 percent.<br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf4amYf131qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
Chassis <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>How is the suspension of the E28 M5 different from that of a standard 5 Series?</b><br />
All M5s utilize the MacPherson strut/semi-trailing arm chassis design common to <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28info">all E28 5 Series</a>,
though the suspension geometry has been altered and many components
have been upgraded by BMW Motorsport in various ways, depending on the
market and production date.<br />
Up front, European-spec models produced before October of 1986
feature unique Bilstein shock inserts (shared only with the
European-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/m6info"> M635CSi</a>) mounted to standard <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
struts, plus a 21mm anti-roll bar. However, beginning in October of
1986, the front shocks were updated to a different iteration from Boge
(also specific to the M5) and the anti-roll bar was enlarged to 25mm. In
the rear, European-spec M5 built before February of 1986 retained
standard <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
components, including the springs, shocks (Bilstein) and a 14mm
anti-roll bar. However, the M5 received unique rear springs beginning
with February 1986 production, followed eight months later by a switch
to Boge rear shocks and a larger 18mm rear anti-roll bar.<br />
<br />
The chassis of the North American-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 is different from the European-spec version in a number of ways. Its
front suspension contains standard springs (shared with the North
American-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> 535i/535is and European-spec E28 M535i/E24 635CSi) and shocks (shared with the North American-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e24info">E24 635CSi</a>),
though it did receive the 25mm anti-roll bar used on later
European-spec M5s. The M5-specific rear springs and 18mm rear anti-roll
bar are identical to those of later European-spec M5s. However, the
North American model is further equipped with an automatic load-leveling
system that is unique to this version within <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28info">the entire E28 range</a>. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What size brakes does the E28 M5 have?</b><br />
The <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 has enlarged vented front rotors that measure 11.8-inches (300mm) in
diameter. These utilize four-piston calipers. The solid rear rotors are
the same as those fitted to an <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> 535i or M535i, measuring 11.2-inches (284mm) in diameter. ABS is standard. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><b> </b><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2vys8WE1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
<b>What wheels and tires were offered on the E28 M5?</b><br />
Two different factory alloy wheels were available for the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5. The majority of European-spec E28 M5s were equipped with <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E24_M6_base_wheel.jpg">metric-sized forged alloy wheels </a> also used on some <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e23">E23 7 Series</a> and <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e24">E24 6 Series</a> models. These measure 195mm x 390mm and are shod with 220/55VR390 tires. <br />
<br />
Later in production, the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5 was also offered with<a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28/e28_wheel.jpg">7.5x16-inch cross-spoke alloy wheels</a>
carrying 225/50VR16 tires, usually Pirelli P700s. These wheels were
introduced as an option on left-hand drive European-spec M5s starting in
9/86 (1987 model year), and were made standard on right-hand drive <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5s at the same time (though they were also offered as an option on UK-market M5s built before 9/86). All North American-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5s, as well as those produced for South Africa, received these wheels as standard equipment. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf2xmDtVx1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
Cosmetics <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What distinguishes the exterior of a European-spec E28 M5 from that of a normal 5 Series?</b><br />
Because
the intention of BMW Motorsport was to hide the performance
capabilities of the M5 within a standard-looking 5 Series body, there
are few external items that differentiate the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/exteriors/E28_M5_Early_Exterior.jpg">European-spec E28 M5</a> from any other <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
sedan. The only body panel that is unique is the black plastic front
airdam, included to reduce front end lift at high speeds. There is also
an M5-specific aerodynamic engine compartment undertray, body-color
rear-view mirror housings and a pair of <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_badge.jpg">“M5” badges</a>, one on the grille and another on the trunk-lid, though these could be omitted upon request (which was common). <br />
<br />
Two different alloy wheels were offered on the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5: A <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E24_M6_base_wheel.jpg">metric-sized version made of forged alloy </a>(exclusive to the M5 within the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> series but also offered on the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e24">E24 6 Series</a> and <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e23">E23 7 Series</a>), as well as a unique <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28/e28_wheel.jpg">7.5x16-inch cross-spoke wheel</a> (introduced for the 1987 model year) that also included <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_Rear.jpg">body-color fender lip extensions</a>.
Shadowline (dechromed) exterior trim for the window surrounds, bumpers
and side moldings was optional beginning with 4/86 production.<br />
In most European markets, the M-Technic aerodynamic package (as fitted as standard to the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M535i) was offered as an option. This consisted of body-color
extensions with ribbed trim (front bumper and lower airdam, side valance
panels, rear bumper and lower diffuser), the M-technic rear spoiler and
dechromed side moldings. This option could be ordered with or without
Shadowline trim and was commonly (but not always) paired with the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_Rear.jpg">16-inch cross-spoke alloy wheels and body-color fender lip extensions</a>. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf305pbVT1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
<b>How is the interior of an E28 M5 different from that of a regular 5 Series?</b><br />
Though identical in basic design and layout to that of any <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28 5 Series</a>, the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_euro_dash.jpg">interior of the E28 M5</a>
is fitted with a few special items. All examples have a three-spoke
M-Technic steering wheel also used in other BMW models. Most are also
equipped with sport front seats, though a few were fitted with the
standard “comfort” versions by request and some even had genuine Recaro
front seats in place of the BMW items. In some markets, both the front
and rear seats include an M tri-color stripe attached to a metal tag. On
the earliest cars, the leather shift knob is topped with only an “M”
logo. This was soon changed to a version with both the standard shift
pattern and the tri-color M stripe. The instrument cluster contains a <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_M6_Tach.jpg">unique 280 kph/170 mph speedometer and a special tachometer with the M logo</a> instead of an economy meter. A black headliner is exclusive to the M5 within the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> range and later examples also have special door sill plates with the “M5” logo. Finally, the trunk of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 is unique for four reasons. First, it contains the battery in a
special right-side compartment, secured by one of two different covers,
depending on the production date. Second, it is lined with a plush
carpet. Third, with the exception of the earliest examples, the lining
on the inside of the trunk lid is black instead of the usual light grey.
Finally, there is a special cargo net to secure loose objectrs, though
this also does not appear to have been fitted to the earliest cars. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What features were optional on the European-spec E28 M5?</b><br />
Because the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 was assembled largely by hand at the BMW Motorsport facility,
European customers could not only choose from the entire range of <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28info">normal E28</a>
options but also request more specialized features like hand-stitched
complete leather interiors and/or integrated electronics such as phones,
faxes, and minibars. Thus, depending on the market and production date,
the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5
could be very sparsely equipped or extremely luxurious. However, every
E28 M5 features power front windows, power mirrors, central locking, and
the Check Control vehicle function monitoring system. Options varied
from market to market but generally included metallic paint, Shadowline
(dechromed) exterior trim, headlight washer/wipers, leather upholstery
(in various grades), air conditioning, the on-board computer II, power
front seats, heated front seats, power sunroof, rear window sunshade,
rear headrests and various audio systems. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>How is a North American-spec E28 M5 cosmetically different from a Euro-spec E28 M5?</b><br />
The <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/exteriors/E28_M5_USA.jpg">North American-spec E28 M5</a>
uses the same government-mandated sealed-beam headlights (all four of
the same diameter) and 5-mph bumpers with integrated side marker lights
as all U.S. and Canadian versions of the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28 5 Series</a>.
However, the M5 adds a special front airdam designed specifically for
the North American front bumper as well as the M-Technic rear spoiler
fitted as an option to some European-spec examples. Though these items
are not unique to this model (both are also found on the <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> 535is), the M5 can further be identified by its Shadowline trim, “M5” grille and trunk-lid badges plus the <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28/e28_wheel.jpg"> 16-inch cross-spoke alloy wheels</a>. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltf5ya6SfD1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
<b>How is the interior of the North American E28 M5 different from that of the European version?</b><br />
Unlike the wide variation of color, trim and equipment found in European-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5s, all North Americans-spec interiors have Black or <a href="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E28_M5_US_Seats.jpg">Natur leather sport seats</a>,
with additonal hide on the seats, center console, glovebox door and
door pulls. In addition, all have the M tri-color seat stripes (front
and rear) and “M5” door sill plates, while the carpeted trunk always
features the black lid lining, cargo net, later-style battery box
enclosure and left-side storage compartment. Standard equipment includes
air conditioning, power seats, power sunroof, cruise control and an
eight-speaker am/fm cassette stereo system. Heated front seats were the
only factory option (standard in Canada)<br />
<img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lu5ylxLGfk1qh3t6o.jpg" /><br />
Special Versions <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>Were there any special versions of the E28 M5?</b><br />
There were no special editions of the German-built <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5. However, a limited run (96 cars) of M5s was assembled in South Africa exclusively for that market. <img height="14" src="http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/spacer.gif" width="1" /><br />
<b>What distinguishes the South African E28 M5 from the German-built version?</b><br />
The 96 right-hand drive <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s produced for the South African market were assembled at the
Rosslyn, South Africa factory using German-supplied Complete Knock Down
(CKD) kits. The mechancal items are thus identical to those of the
European-spec <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a> M5.<br />
<br />
Cosmeticaly, however, the South African <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5 is somewhat unique. All are equipped with the M-Technic body panels
that could be ordered as an option in some European markets, as well as
Shadowline trim and the 7.5x16-inch cross spoke alloy wheels. However
the South African <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s do not include the body-color fender lip extensions found on the
German-built cars, nor were they offered with headlight washer/wipers.
Also, because the South African <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s were painted in the local paint shop, exterior colors were limited
to five choices: Henna Red, Ice White, Cirrus Blue metallic, Delphin
Gray metallic and Diamond Black metallic.<br />
On the inside, all South African <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28">E28</a>
M5s have essentially every normal 5 Series luxury item as standard, the
only optional extra being a power sunroof. Unique to the South African
version is a complete “Highline” Nappa leather interior normally offered
only in <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e24">E24 6 Series</a> and <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e23">E23 7 Series </a>models.
Available in four color choices (Lotus White, Natur, Midsilver and
Indigo), the interior includes Nappa leather on the seats, door panels,
center console, glovebox door, headliner, sun visors, upper door trim
and dashboard. (NOTE: The passenger-side dashboard does not include the
storage tray found on all German-built E28s.) The M tri-color insignias
remain present on the front and rear seats. Finally, South African-spec
models are not equipped with the black inner trunk lid liner used on all
but the earliest German-built E28 M5s, though they do utilize the black
trunk carpeting.<br />
<i><a href="http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=31526">1985 BMW M5 Specifications</a></i><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Source: <a href="http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28m5info">http://classicandvintagebmw.tumblr.com/e28m5info</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=31526"><img src="http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lu5yop58VC1qh3t6o.jpg" /></a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1923451463377860776.post-88781708566795383872012-09-14T20:40:00.000-07:002012-09-14T21:12:41.350-07:00upgrade details...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
<br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[7].[1][2][1]{comment3823073585062_2444213}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[7].[1][2][1]{comment3823073585062_2444213}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[7].[1][2][1]{comment3823073585062_2444213}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]">
Its my beloved E21. Iberscrott - Spanish red, with a custom 3.0 liter
m20 swap in the works, including chromed intake manifold, ZF quick ratio
steering rack, dogleg tranny, shaved engine bay, and BBS RMs...</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[1]"></span><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]"><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0].[0]">Haven't
updated due to fact that the engine is shaved and the brake lines are
being made. Engine bay is repainted with the new South Bend Stage 2
clutch, lightened flywheel, dog le</span></span><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]"><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]..[0]">g
tranny, mated to the 3.0 liter M20. So the hard part of the swap is
over. You will see videos when its all together. The E30 intake manifold
has been chromed .</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]"><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800425}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[3]..[0]"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800464}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800464}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800464}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]">I
am running all Jesse's bushings, redone control arms, all New Quick
Ratio ZF rack, and all new tie rods. A shaved bay means all the wiring
harness and fuse box has been removed and relocated, as well as tucked
brake lines....for a cleaner look.</span></span></span> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]">Ah.
I re-routed my wiring harness for that reason, so that it comes up from
under the intake manifold. I have a thing for old British cars like
MGB's and especially the TR6- those engine bays could use some
'shaving'. wires flying around everywhere from one side of the engine to
the other...</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[31].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2800486}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]"><span id=".reactRoot[20].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2801522}..[1]..[1]..[0].[1]"> </span><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id=".reactRoot[20].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2801522}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[20].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2801522}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]."><span id=".reactRoot[20].[1][2][1]{comment4175025903650_2801522}..[1]..[1]..[0].[2]..[0]">John,
I also removed the CIS injection system, and the expansion bottle. Wait
till you see it finished with the fat BBS RMs that I built, and the
standalone engine management system...</span></span></span> </span></span></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0