Thursday, September 8, 2011
re-fresh of a hartge theme...a wheel evolution...
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| these are the 5 lug, 16" version of the hartge wheels |
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| this wheel is the 14" version of the hartge wheel, notice the et25 which would require spacers |
these wheels are a retro-refresh on the hartge theme....nice, clean look...a worthy consideration...
Source: http://www.oemconcept.com/product_info.php/cPath/23/products_id/144
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| Another variation of the Hartge theme |
euro rear valances...
over at stanceworks.com there are some pretty sweet wheels...i saw this 318 and fell in love...the rear euro apron and bumper change the entire look of the car...not to mention the removal of the black plastic between the tail lights...nice car!
Source: http://www.stanceworks.com/
Source: http://www.stanceworks.com/
the squared exhaust on the late model 3 series...nuce touch...
Notice the dual exhaust on this 323i...the car was only sold in europe, featuring a 2.3L 6-cyl engine with a dual exhaust...nice car!
this exhaust is sick...and those fat rear tires don't hurt this profile...nice!
i love the color of this red...
mono wiper?....
i have been considering a mono wiper for the e21...several thoughts have arisen...first, like with most customizations...how extensive should this mod be...meaning do i want to invest in a new custom made wiper cover...that has the second wiper motor hole deleted...or should i plug the other wiper hole?...this would obviously involve painting the new visible sheet metal that is right below the windshield...or...remove the old wiper mechanism and buy something like the kit below...my wipers are extremely slow so one way or another i need to do something...
| Motorsport Single Blade Windshield Wiper System For BMW e30 (318 325 M3) Adjustable blade parking: park blade on either the right side or center of windshield This system utilizes your stock e30 wiper motor (not included in this kit) Kit also includes 24" wiper blade, and plug for unused wiper pivot Click here for swipe path photo #MONO | |
| Price: | $320.00 |
Source: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php
Monday, August 29, 2011
transplanted e9 3.0 635csi rear seats and consoles...interior...
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| e21 |
Notice the Arm Rests beneath the windows
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Mini Cooper Wheels
15x5.5, ET45, 4x100, 12 lbs. Mini Cooper Wheels - $200
I bought these for my E21 but decided I don't want to run 30mm spacers to make them work. R81 7-hole (aka Imola) ET45 12.0lb (5.45kg). They have some mild curb rash that could be worked out with some 200 grit and some hand sanding.
This is the lightest wheel BMW makes (has made for them, they are Italian). They are strong, they are light. Here in this thread, they are cheap.
Monday, August 22, 2011
cup holder
This is a factory BMW cupholder accessories for the 5 series E34. They fit well with double sided tape placed inside the gap. I put mine on the passenger side but I've seen people with it on the driver side. Mine will get bumped when I go into 5th gear, but dosen't spill anything. You can find them on Ebay for about $35.00 or so
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Fender Rolling & Pulling
Rolling your fenders entails using a fender roller like this to roll in the metal 'lip' on the inside of the wheel arch. This allows you to run wider tires/lower offset/wider track without cutting the piss out of your tires or needing to run absurdly negative camber.
The ghetto way to accomplish this is to use tightly rolled newspaper (or a baseball bat). Lower the car and roll it with the tire to push up the lip (poor explaination). In most cases (unless you are really good) this ends up looking like shit.
Pulling your fenders means actually hammering out the fenders to be wider and higher. Sort of a poor man's fender flare.
The ghetto way to accomplish this is to use tightly rolled newspaper (or a baseball bat). Lower the car and roll it with the tire to push up the lip (poor explaination). In most cases (unless you are really good) this ends up looking like shit.
Pulling your fenders means actually hammering out the fenders to be wider and higher. Sort of a poor man's fender flare.
From BMW Forum: "any car that comes from the factory will have the fender flares pressed in some sort of a machine, its extremely difficult to do it yourself...and you'll be lucky if the metal doesn't wrinkle, not to mention the paint chipping.
if you want to run wide tires, just get a heat gun and a body hammer. heat the fender lip, and slowly go around hitting the lip to bend it into the inside of the fender. if you go slowly enough, and don't hit too hard, and make sure its always around 110 degrees where you're hammering, (and with a bit of luck) your paint shouldn't chip.
when i did this, it took me about 45 minutes a fender...take your time, and if you find a way to do it without killing your back let me know"
if you want to run wide tires, just get a heat gun and a body hammer. heat the fender lip, and slowly go around hitting the lip to bend it into the inside of the fender. if you go slowly enough, and don't hit too hard, and make sure its always around 110 degrees where you're hammering, (and with a bit of luck) your paint shouldn't chip.
when i did this, it took me about 45 minutes a fender...take your time, and if you find a way to do it without killing your back let me know"
Sources:
Monday, August 1, 2011
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Sunday, April 24, 2011
320i mud flaps
i saw these for sale on eBay and thought that i would archive the pics...very interesting parts...NOS...
Brand new, old-stock set of front mud flaps for the BMW 320i series sedan (E21 M10). Part number 72 60 1 871 597.
Brand new, old-stock set of front mud flaps for the BMW 320i series sedan (E21 M10). Part number 72 60 1 871 597.
Friday, April 22, 2011
output shaft
What you'll need:
CV Joint Boot Kit(s)
Roll of paper towels
Box of latex gloves
2x flathead screwdrivers, 1 small, 1 large.
Hammer
Snap-ring pliers
Large Nut
Large Bolt
Throttle body cleaner or some form of degreaser
High temp gasket goo i.e. Curil or Permatex Red.
With the Axle supported against my shoulder I firmly-yet-gently tapped down on the cap working evenly around it's circumference.
Be careful to NOT place any undue stress on the joint itself!
What they don't tell you in the Blue Book: Only work on one end at a time. Don't remove the 2nd dust cap until you've finished the boot on the 1st end or else you will quickly have old CV grease EVERYWHERE.
There's a C-clip where?
Blue Book says to seal sealing cover with Curil but there was no trace of it on disassembly?
C-clip is gone but that sleeve would't just slide off the shaft. This is where the large nut or bolt comes in. (See nut in front.)
Stand the end of the shaft on the nut or bolt and gently tap down on the inner sleeve to slide it from the shaft. DO NOT attempt to remove joint by placing a puller or exerting other force on the outside of the joint as this will pull the joint apart and destroy it. (Can you see the condition of the upper boot? Looks like old elephant skin.)
CV Joint Boot Kit(s)
Roll of paper towels
Box of latex gloves
2x flathead screwdrivers, 1 small, 1 large.
Hammer
Snap-ring pliers
Large Nut
Large Bolt
Throttle body cleaner or some form of degreaser
High temp gasket goo i.e. Curil or Permatex Red.
Bavauto Boot Kit
One boot, two hose clamps, a C-clip and a 3 Oz. packet of "Schmierfett für Gleichlaufgelenke"
Dust Cap removal:
I held the body of the CV joint in the vice with the cap free below.With the Axle supported against my shoulder I firmly-yet-gently tapped down on the cap working evenly around it's circumference.
Be careful to NOT place any undue stress on the joint itself!
Free at last. Free at last.
Repacking: I cut a small tip of the grease pack, stuck it down into the bearings and squeezed. This forced out the old grease with the new.
What was left, I glopped onto the end of the shaft.
Assembly: (no pics as I was pretty much up to my elbows in grease)
Slide the small C-clamp onto the shaft then the small end of the boot.
Slide the CV joint down onto the splined end of the shaft and tap down if necessary.
Install the C-clip on the end of the shaft.
Getting the large end of the boot over the collar of the CV joint:
The new boot is stiffer and smaller than the old and now pretty much everything is covered in grease.
To get it on I slipped the back of the boot over the collar, grabbed the front lip with a wide pair of pliers and firmly-yet-gently pulled the boot up over the collar.
I then cleaned the inside of the dust cap and the outer edge of the CV joint with Throttle body cleaner and applied a thin film of Permatex Red.
Slide the small C-clamp onto the shaft then the small end of the boot.
Slide the CV joint down onto the splined end of the shaft and tap down if necessary.
Install the C-clip on the end of the shaft.
Getting the large end of the boot over the collar of the CV joint:
The new boot is stiffer and smaller than the old and now pretty much everything is covered in grease.
To get it on I slipped the back of the boot over the collar, grabbed the front lip with a wide pair of pliers and firmly-yet-gently pulled the boot up over the collar.
I then cleaned the inside of the dust cap and the outer edge of the CV joint with Throttle body cleaner and applied a thin film of Permatex Red.
I slipped the dust cover on, dropped three bolts in the holes to maintain alignment and then with the body of the CV joint resting on the edge of the bench to avoid stressing the joint, tapped the cover into place.
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