Friday, April 22, 2011

output shaft

What you'll need:
CV Joint Boot Kit(s)
Roll of paper towels
Box of latex gloves
2x flathead screwdrivers, 1 small, 1 large.
Hammer
Snap-ring pliers
Large Nut
Large Bolt
Throttle body cleaner or some form of degreaser
High temp gasket goo i.e. Curil or Permatex Red.



Bavauto Boot Kit
One boot, two hose clamps, a C-clip and a 3 Oz. packet of "Schmierfett für Gleichlaufgelenke"


Dust Cap removal:
I held the body of the CV joint in the vice with the cap free below.
With the Axle supported against my shoulder I firmly-yet-gently tapped down on the cap working evenly around it's circumference.
Be careful to NOT place any undue stress on the joint itself!


What they don't tell you in the Blue Book: Only work on one end at a time. Don't remove the 2nd dust cap until you've finished the boot on the 1st end or else you will quickly have old CV grease EVERYWHERE.


There's a C-clip where?


Blue Book says to seal sealing cover with Curil but there was no trace of it on disassembly?


C-clip is gone but that sleeve would't just slide off the shaft. This is where the large nut or bolt comes in. (See nut in front.)


Stand the end of the shaft on the nut or bolt and gently tap down on the inner sleeve to slide it from the shaft. DO NOT attempt to remove joint by placing a puller or exerting other force on the outside of the joint as this will pull the joint apart and destroy it. (Can you see the condition of the upper boot? Looks like old elephant skin.)


Free at last. Free at last.


Repacking: I cut a small tip of the grease pack, stuck it down into the bearings and squeezed. This forced out the old grease with the new.


What was left, I glopped onto the end of the shaft.


Assembly: (no pics as I was pretty much up to my elbows in grease)
Slide the small C-clamp onto the shaft then the small end of the boot.
Slide the CV joint down onto the splined end of the shaft and tap down if necessary.
Install the C-clip on the end of the shaft.

Getting the large end of the boot over the collar of the CV joint:
The new boot is stiffer and smaller than the old and now pretty much everything is covered in grease.
To get it on I slipped the back of the boot over the collar, grabbed the front lip with a wide pair of pliers and firmly-yet-gently pulled the boot up over the collar.

I then cleaned the inside of the dust cap and the outer edge of the CV joint with Throttle body cleaner and applied a thin film of Permatex Red.


I slipped the dust cover on, dropped three bolts in the holes to maintain alignment and then with the body of the CV joint resting on the edge of the bench to avoid stressing the joint, tapped the cover into place.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Petrol Flap Lid with Plastic Resting Place for Fuel Cap


BMW Genuine OEM E21 Fuel Petrol Tank Flap Lid Cover notice the Resting Place for the cap

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Cutting Stock Springs for a lower ride

this is an example of 2.5 coils cut in the front and 3.5 cut in the rear:


don't use an OXY welder to cut the springs, use a 1mm cut off wheel on an angle grinder, if you want a 2" drop cut about 1 coil off your spring...notice the effect of wheel size on the overall stance and profile...13" vs. 16" wheels..



323i VIN number

WBAAH3105B7794840

this is a VIN from a 1982 BMW 3-Series 323i



Thursday, April 7, 2011

joey79 over at bimmerforums made this entire thread on exchanging the e36 lsd rear differentials into an e21 rear differential case:

"I finally got around to tearing into my 168mm e36 lsd. Upon attempting to simply swap the e36 internals into the e21 case, it was obvious that it just wasn't going to fit without modification to either the case or the lsd unit. The opening of the e21 case isn't as wide as the e36 case. I didn't want to modify any of the moving parts, so I figured the only way to accomplish the goal was to grind away the portion of the case that was preventing entry of the lsd unit and ring gear. Here are some pictures.


Left: e36 Right: e21

I cut off the speedo sensor wheel on the e36 unit.

The opening on the e21 diff (right) is smaller than the e36. On the e36, the lsd/ring gear unit can be inserted straight in. With the e21 case, the unit must be inserted non ring gear side first, then rotated. A small amount of the case needed to be removed to allow the ring gear to clear.


The opening on the e21 diff (right) is smaller than the e36. On the e36, the lsd/ring gear unit can be inserted straight in. With the e21 case, the unit must be inserted non ring gear side first, then rotated. A small amount of the case needed to be removed to allow the ring gear to clear.





I was concerned that the large o-ring on the side cover wouldn't make a good enough seal with this amount of material removed, but I test fitted the side cover, and it seems to be fine.



LSD unit with ring gear installed with both side covers on.


Now that I know it can physically fit, the rest should be easy enough. I'll have to swap pinion gears. I'll be getting all new bearings, seals and o-rings. If I have problems with gear mesh, I'll take it to a diff builder to shim it properly, but I have all winter to pick at it.

***********************
Update:

I pulled the pinions from the e36 and e21 diffs. I measured them with a digital micrometer, and all measurements were within .002" They are interchangeable.

 E36 is on the left, E21 on the right. The diff is a 3.45 (I believe 25% lock) from an e36 318is.  3.45 LSD would be great for cruising at highway speeds."


i will assume the half shaft will need to be cut and shorten like an inch or 2. or no ?



BMW M1 Concept Car


BMW M1 Concept Car

Fuel Line, Gas Tank, and Gas Tank Connects

this is a visual reminder to me of the things that need to be done on my fuel system...







center console...e28



this is the center console for an e28 e brake console without the power window switches

BMW Batteries 61.216.920.804

these are m3 batteries...stock, and the csl 'upgrade'



a guy over on the bimmerforums posted these pics of his suspension work...for my tastes, my usage, and my interests this particular car is far from ideal...however, i do like looking at possibilities...

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Rear Disc Brake Dust Covers/Carries BMW P/N# 34211117059




after travelling back and forth this week...my travel weary eye saw the delivery box on the porch when i pulled into the drive...these were in the box...they are the new dust covers i ordered, they took forever coming from germany, now i need to pick up the bearings and seals and assembly can begin...

M10 Engine Rebuild/Upgrade

The "perfect" engine build is different for each person and application-it still requires compromises. Having said that I will post my personal "recipe". Though I have done it in the past it continues to evolve.

Short block:
84mm stroke (s14 crank) counter weights coated with oil shedding coating
92mm bore forged flat top pistons set at .000" deck height, skirts coated with dry film lubricant (DFL) and tops with ceramic heat reflective coating.
Bearings coated with DFL
Reworked stock connecting rods coated with oil shedding coating (I would love a set of 5.7" custom H beam rods but the cost outweighs the benefits)
A light weight dampener/pulley with 36-1 tooth wheel attached
Lightened stock flywheel
All reciprocating parts static balanced to within .5 gram and rotating parts dynamically balanced.

Cylinder head:
Milled for combustion chamber volume of 50cc (a compressed head gasket thickness of .035 and zero deck height will give 11-1 compression)
Mildly ported head with DFL on intake valve stems, ceramic on valve heads and combustion chamber
Elgin 284 X 10.47mm valve lift cam coated with DFL (this cam should perform in a 2.2L engine much like my current Elgin 278 does in my 2.0L)
rocker locks
rockers with shaft and bushings coated with DFL
Titanium valve retainers
Valve springs with "just enough" pressure to control the valves with that cam.
Single row timing gears/chain
Distributor hole plugged

Exhaust:
4-2-1 header, 1 5/8" primaries 18" long into 1 3/4" secondaries 20" long, merged collectors used throughout and a venturi on the last one to a 2.5" exhaust using mandrel bends, one Edelbrock RPM oval muffler and exiting through the body behind the passenger seat.

Oil system:
External crank driven single stage oil pump-no stuck relief valves to worry about.
Remote filter
oil thermostat
oil cooler

Intake system:
Fabricated intake with 15" intake runners (plenum to valve head length) not sure on the plenum volume yet
65mm throttle body

Fuel system:
MS efi with EDIS ignition
29lb injectors at 48psi rail pressure
aftermarket external fuel pump
1/2" steel supply lines
3/8" return lines

As you can see there is much more than most people think, an engine is a system and EVERY part must be considered when modifying it.

Compromises with this configuration:
single stage oil pump with wet sump vs. 3 stage oil pump with dry sump
5.315" rods instead of 5.7" rods
Crank is heavier than I would like
Lightened steel flywheel vs aluminum flywheel
These compromises save about $2000 in parts and labor cost but don't reduce power much.

This engine should easily push 200hp and nearly equal torque in the mid range. In a 2200lb e21 it would have 11lb per hp. The e46 M3 6 cyl (333hp) has about 10.5lb per hp and the 3.2L e36 m3 has about 10lb per hp so it would be pretty easy to startle those drivers. A properly set up e21 would be more fun anyway...

These are just my opinions and educated guesses.

ken



Source: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1033859&highlight=S14+headers



Monday, April 4, 2011

epicfail




the wheels are BBS 16x8 all around he's not sure on offsets..but "with spacers its somewhere around
-4 in the rear and + 20 in the front. 205s front and rear"...



this is epicfail's car from the bimmerforums...nice ride! LOVE the stance of this car...but...EVERYONE with technical knowledge on the forums say this car is too low for decent levels of handling...